A few 1/35 IFV's and AFV's

[Ramba]

So, this Tamiya 1/35 M1A1 was started back in December, 2023 and primed in May, 2024. The gunner's primary sight was replaced with a spare one from Meng that I got from Meng's customer service. This kit has the older gunner's sight. That's as far as I got because I forgot that it also had the incorrect collimator for the version I am making. The barrel shown on the kit is not the current one. It was replaced with a new one. No pics of the new one attached yet as I ran out of CA glue.



No one makes just the collimator by itself so I had to get a whole new barrel with the correct collimator. I got the Chuanyu metal and 3D printed barrel. The barrel is aluminum, the collimator and fume extractor are 3D printed and the rounds are brass.





The barrel is only dry fitted for now as I ran out of CA glue.


The 120mm brass rounds.



The 120mm round compared to a 130mm round.

[Ramba]

Got this 3D printed 1/35 Dagor off Ebay. It was sold from France. Only seller I could find. There is a 3D print file on CULTS 3D but I don't have a 3D printer and the cost of the file plus paying someone to print it for me would have cost more than double the price I got it for off Ebay already printed. It took close to 6 weeks to arrive though. It comes already printed fully assembled.



Unfortunately, it arrived with the front of the rear wheel wells broken and or misprinted. I contacted the seller but got no response. They removed most of the 3D printer support stems but there were still quite a few left and also the little stubs from the ones they removed. All those scrapes, scratches and gouges you see in the resin is from the person that removed the 3D printer support stems, not me. Also, the springs in the suspension are printed loose around the shock absorber and some of the coils were broken from the person removing the support stems. There were still some support stems on the springs and need to be removed extremely carefully as the coil springs are extremely fragile. The 3 shifters and the gas pedal were also broken off and missing. None of the broken/missing parts were in the box it came in so they were broken off before packing.



It is roughly the same length as a HMMWV. Here it is posed alongside a Tamiya M1025. It is also roughly the same height but didn't take a photo showing it. No weapons ring included in the 3D print so you have to provide your own. The Dagor can fit either a 46" or 42" weapons ring. The size of the one on this kit is for the 46" weapons ring.


In this image, you can see one shifter on the dashboard and two on the center section. Again, all 3 were missing on mine.


Not shown in the photos on Ebay of the 3D printed 1/35 Dagor kit was the spare tire but was disappointed that it wasn't considered as part of the kit.


It is overall a nice, solid 3D print but the broken and missing parts was a disappointment.

Anyway, this is the one I will be doing. It has the Dillon Aero M134D MMC system. I already had the Legend set and will be using it on mine. Unfortunately, the Legend weapons ring is the 42" type so lots of work to fit it on the 46" opening on the Dagor kit.

[Old Wombat]

Ooh, that's nasty!

Glad it's not me cleaning up that mess!

[Frank3k]

It looks like they didn't do a great job of washing the vehicle after they removed the supports but before they did a final cure. Some of the cut supports stuck to the wet resin then stuck to the surface when the vehicle was cured.

A good example is the right rear tire. They may have tried to remove the stuck on supports from the left rear, hence the gouges. They're not as bad as they look; a little putty can fix that.

There are also support ends that weren't removed (rear cabin area, cap over left rear tire) that should be much easier to remove with a sharp hobby knife. Heating the model gently with a hair dryer or some warm water should help, but it can't be too hot or for too long.

Make sure you wear eye protection when removing the remaining supports!

They should have broken down the model a bit - maybe into body, chassis and interior to make cleanup easier.

[Ramba]

Ooh, that's nasty!

Glad it's not me cleaning up that mess!

Yeah, it was pretty bad. It took me roughly 2 hours to cut the rest of the stems and the nubs. Still needs more clean up getting rid of all the nubs.

It looks like they didn't do a great job of washing the vehicle after they removed the supports but before they did a final cure. Some of the cut supports stuck to the wet resin then stuck to the surface when the vehicle was cured.

A good example is the right rear tire. They may have tried to remove the stuck on supports from the left rear, hence the gouges. They're not as bad as they look; a little putty can fix that.

There are also support ends that weren't removed (rear cabin area, cap over left rear tire) that should be much easier to remove with a sharp hobby knife. Heating the model gently with a hair dryer or some warm water should help, but it can't be too hot or for too long.

Make sure you wear eye protection when removing the remaining supports!

They should have broken down the model a bit - maybe into body, chassis and interior to make cleanup easier.

Lots of stems were stuck all over. As you said, they removed the stems before curing and they all stuck after curing. It was a PITA to remove all the stuck ones. The regular stems that were left, were also a PITA to remove and that is why they left them on.

As I said above to Old Wombat, I removed the rest of the stems but still a lot more clean up to do of all the nubs left after removing the stems. I will more than likely putty the gouges in the tires but not worry about the scratches and scrapes. I will leave them as is and just say they were there from throwing gear and ammo cans in the vehicle.

[Ramba]

Working on finding a weapons ring to fit the Dagor. The Legend weapons ring is too small so I had to find something else that would fit.


On the left is a Live Resin but is slightly too big. The center one is from a Tamiya M1025 HMMWV. It is slightly too small and I would have to remove the extended parts. The one on the right is from Legend.


They do make a HMMWV style weapons ring for the Dagor as seen below. I want to use the Legend Dillon Aero MMC weapons ring though.


I found a weapons ring from a trashed Academy M1A2 kit that is also just slightly too small. I glued on some plastic strip around the edge of the Academy part. You can see the white plastic strip on it. The Legend weapons ring fits perfectly inside the Academy part.



Here are the Academy and Legend weapons rings test fitted to the Dagor.

[Kerick]

Nice reengineering!

[apophenia]

Nice reengineering!

Indeed! That looks perfect ... nice work 

[Buzzbomb]

nice work, getting this in shape.

As the guys have said, this is the best and worst of 3D printing on display.

[finsrin]

Chiming in with others on "nice reengineering" 

[Ramba]

Nice reengineering!

Indeed! That looks perfect ... nice work 

nice work, getting this in shape.

As the guys have said, this is the best and worst of 3D printing on display.

Chiming in with others on "nice reengineering" 

Thank you to all!

[Ramba]

Started on the Legend Dillon Aero M134D MMC set. All the parts from the box.


Some of the specific weapons ring parts.


Legend provides two different barrels for the minigun.


I will be replacing the resin barrels with the RB Model metal barrels.


Legend provides 3 resin ammo feed chutes. My experience with the resin ones are all bad. I will be replacing the Legend ones with a flexible rubber one from Live Resin.


Some of the weapons ring parts together. The ammo can is only snapped in and can be easily removed. No need to actually glue it on just yet. This is as far as I got for now.

[Old Wombat]

Nice work on the weapons ring, above, & the Aero Dillon mount seems to be coming along nicely!

[Ramba]

Nice work on the weapons ring, above, & the Aero Dillon mount seems to be coming along nicely!

Thanks!

[Ramba]

Moving along with the 3D printed Dagor and Legend Dillon Aero M134D MMC set.

I got most of the Legend weapons ring together. only a few parts left off including the battery and ammo feed chute. Here are some of the parts that still need attaching. They are left off for easier painting.



Got the minigun together with the RB Model metal barrels. The metal barrels were a true test of my patience. The little discs were a PITA to get over the barrels. It took roughly 3 hours to get them together.


The weapons ring test fitted to the Dagor.

[Kerick]

That’s looking great! I’ve heard others talk about assembling those barrels. It’s quite a challenge.

[LemonJello]

This is coming along really well. I'd like a kit of this in plastic, though the 3d print does look nice.

[Frank3k]

That weapons ring and the minigun look great!

[Old Wombat]

 

[Gingie]

The minigun is a kit on its own!

I saw that DAGR on Cults3D and have been itching to download it. Would be great to see a diorama of one rolling out the back of a CH-47!

[Ramba]

Thanks everyone! Yes, the minigun was a kit on its own and the RB metal barrels were a royal pain in the a$$. I would also have preferred the Dagor in plastic. The 3D print isn't that bad but has a couple broken parts that came that way.

[Ramba]

SSModel 1/35 CV90120. Delivered yesterday. My parents actually got it for me. Pretty decent details. It was delivered with scars on some parts of the kit. You can see some of the scars on the turret. It isn’t scratched with raised of engraved lines, it is flush. It just has those white lines. I was told the white lines might be uncured resin.






I was hoping for the version with the RWS and extra side hull armor like the one below but they only did the one with the thermal imager on the roof.

[Frank3k]

SSModel 1/35 CV90120. Delivered yesterday. My parents actually got it for me. Pretty decent details. It was delivered with scars on some parts of the kit. You can see some of the scars on the turret. It isn’t scratched with raised of engraved lines, it is flush. It just has those white lines. I was told the white lines might be uncured resin.

Uncured resin would be shiny and sticky. That looks like a dirty wash, and some crud got stuck to the model in the wash before the cure, then got cured in place. It could also be that that area was still went with alcohol (or water) from the bath and cured wet.

Neither is a huge issue, just an annoyance. Should sand out if it's even a problem.

[raafif]

SSModel 1/35 CV90120. Delivered yesterday. My parents actually got it for me. Pretty decent details. It was delivered with scars on some parts of the kit. You can see some of the scars on the turret. It isn’t scratched with raised of engraved lines, it is flush. It just has those white lines. I was told the white lines might be uncured resin.

Uncured resin has always been a long-term problem in the past - it takes 5 years to dry but 3D stuff will hopefully be better as I will soon get my first 3D-printed kit.

I could actually use some building scaffolding items like those support struts.

[Ramba]

SSModel 1/35 CV90120. Delivered yesterday. My parents actually got it for me. Pretty decent details. It was delivered with scars on some parts of the kit. You can see some of the scars on the turret. It isn’t scratched with raised of engraved lines, it is flush. It just has those white lines. I was told the white lines might be uncured resin.

Uncured resin would be shiny and sticky. That looks like a dirty wash, and some crud got stuck to the model in the wash before the cure, then got cured in place. It could also be that that area was still went with alcohol (or water) from the bath and cured wet.

Neither is a huge issue, just an annoyance. Should sand out if it's even a problem.

Thanks for the info. No need to sand it as I ran my fingernail across those white lines and it is smooth and flush with the rest of the turret. I will give it a soap bath next. I am still cleaning up the nubs left behind after trimming off all the supports.