Beyond The Sprues
Current and Finished Projects => Physical Models => Land => Topic started by: Kerick on June 30, 2024, 01:00:43 PM
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Many of the folks here have noticed, I'm not much of a treadhead. 1/72nd scale jets are my usual subject. But when I do build something with tracks, it can get pretty weird. I was rummaging through the stash a week or so ago and came across a bunch of stuff given to me by the good hearted Mr Fontaine. I became possessed by the turretless Trumpeter Brazilian EE-T2 tank plus all the other parts of every description included in this package. Being somewhat inspired by the IDF Puma and Nagmachon APCs I started to brainstorm and assemble something out of all this. This has been mentioned in my blog but I suppose its time to start an actual thread.
Let's start with the obligatory instructions and parts shots.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53824949158_2f94e03833_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1jW9N)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53825148105_002d4e8ea3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1kXhV)
I added a stiffener down the middle of the upper hull as the engine area had separate side panels and the top deck had become bent. I also closed up the drivers hatch as the periscopes were behind the hatch which didn't seem to make sense.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53824948628_70522c75ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1jVZE)
Since the Nagmachon
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53824948213_29cb762ba6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1jVSv)
And the Puma
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53824949033_5873789db9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1jW7D)
Were covered in ERA panels I decided to copy some from the Italeri M60 Blazer kit that was also in the stash. I didn't want to strip the Blazer of the ERA parts in case I ever wanted to build it OOB so I got down off the shelf the Aluminite casting kit I had bought many years ago. The two part casting resin was beyond saving but after what seemed like an hour of stirring the silicone mold material looked usable. I couldn't believe I got a pretty good silicone mold out of it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53823787197_c6771afa87_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1dYJZ)
After a test cast using UV casting resin I got this nice little part.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53823789317_f8a50db893_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1dZnx)
No mold release agent required and it came out perfectly so I went to town on ERA production.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53825038904_e5d4598692_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1koQ9)
I was able to do this outdoors in the shade and place the filled mold out in the sun for a few minutes to cure. In bright sun light curing is almost instant.
I've been working on the upper structure that is placed on the tank hull. The IDF used their Centurion tanks minus the turret but since this is a vehicle made out of every spare part that could be laying around this vehicle will be quite the junkyard dog. I had a base for the stand for a ship model laying around for a long time so it became the basis for the doghouse. Nice and square with a little bit of slope to the sides. I glued whatever armor looking parts I had to the sides for visual interest but then realized it will probably all be covered by the ERA blocks. Oh well, this stuff was just laying around anyway.
Here's what it looks like with an M48 cupola and a rear hatch made from a Bradley back door.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53824709321_601887a7ec_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1iGRF)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53824945838_311f8d92c4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1jVay)
This is another option with Stryker hatches and an M113 engine cover with some other piece I don't recognize. This combo would probably get an M151 remote weapon system.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53823789967_2a5b954961_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1dZyK)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53823787697_7a65627541_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1dYTB)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53825036354_4fa29154c1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1ko5b)
Here's a hatch from a Bradley driver's compartment that might get transplanted.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53825143715_ba8169c023_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1kVZe)
I'm also going to add an M9 dozer blade too.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53824948108_bce60a708b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1jVQG)
So tell what you folks think of the doghouse arraignments. I might save the M48 cupola for my M41 Walker Bulldog assault gun conversion. Paint scheme is completely up in the air right now.
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Hi Ken. Nice to see you putting those discarded parts and pieces to good use! I forgot what that Osorio hull looked like as it has been so long since I last held it in my hands. :smiley:
Something to consider for the position of that Bradley driver's hatch you have placed at the front of the hull. Why not turn it sideways? With the flat side up against the raised roof area directly behind the hatch? This would have the hatch opening to the left and all you would need to do is build a hinge for the thing. It would also address the geometry restrictions that the raised roof section creates for an open hatch that would conflict with the raised roof area unless it opens to the side.
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Hi Ken. Nice to see you putting those discarded parts and pieces to good use! I forgot what that Osorio hull looked like as it has been so long since I last held it in my hands. :smiley:
Something to consider for the position of that Bradley driver's hatch you have placed at the front of the hull. Why not turn it sideways? With the flat side up against the raised roof area directly behind the hatch? This would have the hatch opening to the left and all you would need to do is build a hinge for the thing. It would also address the geometry restrictions that the raised roof section creates for an open hatch that would conflict with the raised roof area unless it opens to the side.
That’s a good idea! I was considering cutting out the drivers position from the Bradley upper hull and using that to build the drivers position. That still might work even when sideways. I was also thinking of adjusting the suspension to give a nose down position with the M9 dozer blade in place.
Any thoughts from anyone concerning paint scheme will be appreciated.
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A very cool looking project :smiley:
... Something to consider for the position of that Bradley driver's hatch you have placed at the front of the hull. Why not turn it sideways? ...
Clever!
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I also have a commanders hatch from a late model Jumbo Sherman. Not as overbearing as the M48 stuff. I think I remember some pics of a Nagmachon or a Puma with something like that. Thanks for the sideways Bradley hatch suggestion. That’s a great idea.
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That’s a good idea! I was considering cutting out the drivers position from the Bradley upper hull and using that to build the drivers position. That still might work even when sideways. I was also thinking of adjusting the suspension to give a nose down position with the M9 dozer blade in place.
Any thoughts from anyone concerning paint scheme will be appreciated.
The Bradley hatch for the driver looks good - maybe extend an upper glacis at the same height all the way to the right side of the hull?
As for it's finish, if it's meant for Mech companies that are part of EE T2 battalions then it does cry out of something other than plain khaki.
I could see Venezuela as a potential problem, so what's appropriate for that terrain?
(https://www.researchgate.net/publication/317254189/figure/fig4/AS:500632217976832@1496371430764/Brazilian-Air-Force-Bases-Stations-The-map-shows-the-Brazilian-Air-Force-locations-in.png)
https://militarymatters.online/defense-news/brazilian-army-announces-requirements-for-new-tank/ (https://militarymatters.online/defense-news/brazilian-army-announces-requirements-for-new-tank/)
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A quick look showed different Brazilian vehicles with different schemes. Solid OD green, NATO pattern truck, green and brown and green and black. The green and brown was interesting. Some small black accents might help. No rush yet.
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I have the drivers hatch installed and the doghouse almost ready. The hatch problems are solved by keeping it simple. Two Stryker hatches and the rear hatch from an early Bradley. I’m thinking about some sort of shields for the gunners. Once again, keep it simple.
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Here's a couple of pics of the progress so far.
This has the Bradley driver's hatched all glued down.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53831924583_7818fe9089_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1WFGK)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53831924573_33f5d788f5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1WFGz)
The doghouse and hatches are glued in place.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53831936478_0df9806335_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q1WKeQ)
Now I need something to cover that little hole. I have some Rust-oleum Teracotta spray paint that makes a great no slip texture for 1/35th scale. I've used it before on armor vehicles and it looks good. Then road wheels etc.
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Interesting
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Excellent choice on using the Bradley hatch for the crew compartment Ken. The Stryker hatches also appear to be an excellent choice. Bless AFV Club for making those bits and pieces so readily available in their Stryker upgrade kits.
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I’ve got the M151 Remote Weapon System as a separate kit and it comes with the hatches plus the entire sprues including the wheels. No tires unfortunately.
Making some progress day by day. Yard work is getting in the way somewhat.
Question for the group. How do real tanks have those massive side skirts that are everywhere today attached? Are they just welded to something or are there some type of supports or hangers? These things must weigh tons so it must be substantial.
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I’ve got the M151 Remote Weapon System as a separate kit and it comes with the hatches plus the entire sprues including the wheels. No tires unfortunately.
Making some progress day by day. Yard work is getting in the way somewhat.
Question for the group. How do real tanks have those massive side skirts that are everywhere today attached? Are they just welded to something or are there some type of supports or hangers? These things must weigh tons so it must be substantial.
That was how I managed to get enough Stryker wheels to modify my Glencoe M274 Mule wheels was because of all the extra parts in those M151 RWS kits.
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I masked off and sprayed the terra cotta paint for non slip surface today. Kooky thing was no matter how much I shook the can it only sprayed when upside down! And I switched out the nozzle for a new one. I’ll take the tape off tonight and post some pics tomorrow.
I found a pic of the EE-T1 prototype in the MERDC four color scheme. It’s a possibility. The T2 prototype was painted sand when they were trying to sell the type to the Saudis.
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Well it is tomorrow now so here are the latest pics.
This is what that the terra cotta paint looks like. Its quite the rusty red but that won't matter.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53835193977_433671c261_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q2erzB")
With the tape off.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53836337943_7acc9d5129_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q2kiDa")[
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53836086426_65fa446fc3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2j1SE)
I stole some mud flaps from a Bradley. They shouldn't leave those things parked just anywhere.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53836337823_5c3d07bae7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2kiB6)
I stole some M48 headlights too. Just doesn't look right.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53836086346_f40385e03a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2j1Rh)
These are the kit ones. They don't look right either.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53835193872_962b69ce86_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2erxN)
I'll scrape the bottom of the junk box and see what else might be in there.
I should work on painting up the road wheels but I think building some side skirts will be more fun!
I have a plan for front mudflaps too. I'll see how well that works. I found a pic of the EE-T1 prototype in the MERDOC four color scheme. It’s a possibility. Of course I'll have to change that up a little. I looked up these patterns and there is one for a tropical region. More to consider.
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Great kit-bash and paint. Keep going. :smiley:
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Driver needs a vision block to his left ... unless he doesn't want to know what's going on that side. Great bash , keep going :smiley:
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Looks great so far and the anti-slip came out great!
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I finished the ERA blocks today. Pics to follow. I think it came out pretty good. I cast enough UV resin copies that I was able to pick through and use the parts that came out the best. My biggest problem was self induced by overfilling the mold. Since it’s crystal clear resin it can be hard to tell when it full. Sanding off the excess turned into a real PITA.
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Here's the ERA blocks in place. Worked out pretty good.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53839093687_bf29624d9e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2zqPZ)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53839988111_f9975de34f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2E1H6)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53840430915_817389b649_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2GhkD)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53840248998_e8ef87b16a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2Fmg9)
Time for some primer. I'm going to look into that MERDC tropical pattern some more.
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Shouldn't this be in the "Physical Models" forum instead of "Ideas & Inspiration"..?
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You’re right. I obviously didn’t look well enough when I started this. Mods feel free if you think it necessary.
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Thanks for the move!
I’ve been working on the side skirts. The front portion will be Challenger style while the rear will be a little Nagmachon style.
I bought some 3mm and 6mm Tamiya masking tape to try some digital camo. Paint colors will be Model Master from what I have in the paint drawer. Pray for me……
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More I look at this the more interesting it becomes. :smiley: Inspires me for a wanna build of kit sitting in stash for years.
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More I look at this the more interesting it becomes. :smiley: Inspires me for a wanna build of kit sitting in stash for years.
Go for it!
Strange how this just grabbed my imagination. I’ve really been obsessed with it. Now if I can get through the paint stage.
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Moving along very nicely
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I’m going to try this pattern. I might have to simplify it. We’ll see how this goes. I’m still working on the side skirts.
https://defence.nridigital.com/global_defence_technology_mar21/challenger_tank_digital_camouflage
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I’m going to try this pattern...
Nice choice! This is going to be epic :smiley:
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I’m going to try masking off each digital pattern separately to keep from adding five layers of paint by the time I’m done. There is some nice detail in many areas and I really don’t want to bury it under layers of paint. I’m also going to try some preshading with very dark green or black. This should be something new for me.
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I attached the side skirts last night with some putty I found at the hobby shop. They look pretty good. I managed to cast enough acceptable quality ERA panels. I’ll post the pics tonight. Babysitting the granddaughter today.
I don’t know what the problem was with the casting process. I kept getting casts that did not harden evenly no matter if I put them in the sunlight or used the UV flashlight. The finished product had a slightly rippled and uneven surface on the face of the part. The next cast would come out fine. Another chemistry mystery. I need to mold the smoke grenade discharge boxes and cast hopefully four of them.
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Here's some up to date pics. The casting using the UV resin has worked fairly well. Some problems with me over filling the mold and some issues with the resin not curing properly which allowed movement of the part and the face of the part getting basically smeared while still in the mold. This happened both outdoors in the sun and indoors using the flashlight. Weird. Isn't chemistry great?! At least I got enough good parts to finish the job.
This is the braces for the side skirts.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53867725808_0e8b5962a5_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q57baf")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53867829329_ffae5f9413_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q57GW6")
Here's the full skirt combo.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53867890225_ddbebd930b_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q58232")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53866572937_5f373c6fce_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q51gsa")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53867474071_f4d91bf187_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q55TjX")
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Here's a product I found for masking curves. I'll use it for the MERDC pattern if I give up on the digital pattern I'm considering. The hobby shop I was at had a whole rack full but some appeared to have glitter or small plastic pieces mixed in. I avoided those.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53867829104_c9bfece767_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q57GSd")
Works good for tacking parts together but I haven't tried it for painting. Of course AK Products was at the nationals with their purpose made masking putty for only ten bucks. Usually around twenty online.
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Does your resin require stirring? How old is it? In any case, the results look good.
The Aaron's thinking putty should work. I got some in Galena, Ill. about 10 years ago, for about $10-$12 Their putty on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/stores/CrazyAarons/Homepage/page/B5A06012-B3F5-480D-ACA2-C5EA3D56044C) doesn't look too expensive.
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The resin comes in a black squeeze bottle. No stirring, mixing or shaking required. If you squeeze it out in the sun it hardens before it gets into the mold. I had an old bottle and bought a new bottle and they both performed the same.
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Fiddling around with the fiddly bits lately. Not much to take a pic of at this point. It seems to take more time than anything else to decide where to place things like radio antennas. Making the part is easy.
I’m making a mold for the smoke grenade launchers from the M60 Blazer kit. Hopefully I can make four of them and get them mounted.
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The grenade launchers are giving me a fit. The mold is deep and the face of the grenade launcher which has the details is in the deepest part of the mold. This makes it hard to get enough UV light into the mold to cure all the resin. I’m going to try poring in two steps, curing the deepest part then poring more to fill the rest of the box. If this doesn’t work then I’ll get some two part resin and pore that. I’ll save the UV stuff for shallow molds.
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Interesting findings on the UV resin, but makes a lot sense around the curing.
Deep, narrow moulds like that often lead to some bubble'o'bill issues as well on the extreme ends, which would often lead to much profanity and eventually scratch building in my case.
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Ken, maybe it's time to consider a 3D resin printer... And isopropyl, gloves, eye protection and a huge supply of paper towels!
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I’m going to try poring in two steps, curing the deepest part then poring more to fill the rest of the box. If this doesn’t work then I’ll get some two part resin and pore that. I’ll save the UV stuff for shallow molds.
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I took a mental break from the dog tonight and worked on an ancillary build for my Ian McQue project. I took down an old build off the shelf a few months ago of an old Ricotank (I think) of the West German assault gun from the 70s Kanonenjadgpanzer that I converted to the HOT antitank missile version. It was 1/72nd scale or there abouts and I ripped off the front and have been building a 1/48th “cockpit” for it to become a tracked tug for pulling cargo around. I found the floor and one side of I think a spitfire cockpit, the seat from some other thing, made the back wall from the cockpit floor of some three seater and other parts of sheet plastic. Now I have to rebuild the areas over the tracks and add details. I’ll probably paint it yellow or orange or something construction like. I found a pilot figure to fit without too much chopping but I’ll have to make him look less military. I’ve been checking the supply of truck wheels to hopefully build a wagon for the cargo. I have a set of four from perhaps a deuce and a half that might work I think it’s 1/48th so that’s good. No rush.
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Now it makes more sense! :smiley:
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Now it makes more sense! :smiley:
Which part? None of it makes much sense!
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I took down an old build off the shelf a few months ago of an old Ricotank (I think) of the West German assault gun from the 70s Kanonenjadgpanzer that I converted to the HOT antitank missile version. It was 1/72nd scale or there abouts and I ripped off the front and have been building a 1/48th “cockpit” for it to become a tracked tug for pulling cargo around.
Neat idea ! Might attempt the same in 1/35th ;)
Waiting to see the Dog in paint so the clear bits can be seen .... or are they "stealth" armour ;D
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As usual I’m approaching painting time and starting to slow down. It’s either the British digital or tropical MERDC and I can’t decide which. The digital will be difficult with a great opportunity for me to get frustrated. MERDC could be plan B but boring. PITA. The tug buggy will be easier, just pick orange, red or Yellow. And please don’t someone say use all three!
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MERDC could be plan B but boring. PITA.
I worry that MERDC will be to 'busy' if there's a lot of stowage
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As usual I’m approaching painting time and starting slow down. It’s either the British digital or tropical MERDC and I can’t decide which. The digital will be difficult with a great opportunity for me to get frustrated. MERDC could be plan B but boring. PITA. The tug buggy will be easier, just pick orange, red or Yellow. And please don’t someone say use all three!
Just do the MERDC scheme transposing yellow, orange & red for the NATO brown, green & black. ;)
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As usual I’m approaching painting time and starting slow down. It’s either the British digital or tropical MERDC and I can’t decide which. The digital will be difficult with a great opportunity for me to get frustrated. MERDC could be plan B but boring. PITA. The tug buggy will be easier, just pick orange, red or Yellow. And please don’t someone say use all three!
Just do the MERDC scheme transposing yellow, orange & red for the NATO brown, green & black. ;)
Wise guy!
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Here's a couple of pics to show off the latest. An antenna mount and two M60 mounts.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53896429996_d494f6bf96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q7DhV3)
I made this one by filing a groove in the end of the tube and gluing to the upright. Way too fiddly!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53896769799_5bc23003f8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q7F2VH)
The two pour system worked better but not perfect. It will do the job.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53896430096_5e303ddd09_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q7DhWL)
I'm thinking of a twin .50 set up like this from Live Resin. I'll scratch it myself. Probably $50 for the set.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53896853495_bc9b94f904_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q7FsNK)
And some small gun shields. I found a small V shaped shield from something German in the junk box. I may copy that. No resin required! I will need some wire cutters.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53896853580_b732c7b8b4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q7FsQd)
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Just a little progress. Finally got the hitch attached. Plus some extra road wheels I cast with the UV resin. Using the two pour method worked the best.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53900607482_039105a26b_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q81GJE")
I made some lights with the UV resin also. They will probably get used somewhere on the Ian McQue project.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53901762903_ac053ab344_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q87CcH")
I found some Testors paint called flat rubber. Not so much. It might make a future off the wall camo color but its not rubber. At least not like I'm looking for. I'll just mix a little after I paint the road wheels camo colors.
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For rubber tires I used to use Humbrol 67 but that brand is now CRAP. Tamiya enamel XF-24 is a slightly lighter colour but good enough.
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I’ve got a little UV flashlight that takes about three minutes to fully cure the resin. Get a bigger light if you can find one. The little thing they sell at the craft stores isn’t worth the powder it takes to blow it to, well you know. Sunlight is the best but not always available.
Working on the guns still. The M60s are done shields and all. I need to assemble the RWS and the M9 dozer blade. I found this etched brass set of little connectors on sale at the hobby shop. It’s made to connect brass tubing into various positions. Some of the parts might make good radio antennas but the spaces left after cutting out the connectors might make digital camo masks. Painting this contraption will be interesting!
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I don't build from May-September, but I do ponder. I'm puttering around with the UV resin a bit. Raw it seems like tube glue. Can you partially cure it first to trim excess off?
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It seems that if it’s not fully cured it gets super sticky. I haven’t tried trimming or otherwise handling it without being fully cured.
Straight from the bottle it will flow into just about any details. A toothpick helps get it into tiny bolt heads and such. Keep it to a minimum or bubbles will form.
I’m searching the internet for a better curing light. The ones at the craft stores are just too small. The bottle doesn’t say anything about what wavelengths to use.
BTW, I finished the two M60 guns with shields and painted. Ready to install.
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Typical UV curing resins (for printers, at least) cure at 405nm or 395Nm. A few non-printer resins cure at 385nm or less.
Following the path of least resistance, most UV resin "glues" are probably repackaged 3D printer resins (or at least the base resin before additives). Consumer grade printers are almost all using 405nm LEDs, so the resins will cure best at 405nm or 395nm.
I have one like this one (https://www.amazon.com/GLOSSDAY-Blacklight-Flashlights-Ultraviolet-Professional/dp/B07F7QG2HW/) and even though it's using 395nm LEDs it will very quickly cure any 3D printer resin.
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I've got one of [these :-
(https://i.postimg.cc/h4m6Cqb4/s-l960.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/py2sT463)
I bought it for treating yellowed decals, but it's not very good at that, it's better for curing UV resin . . .
cheers,
Robin.
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I have something like that but it only stays on for one minute, which is not long enough. Usually takes three minutes or more if the mold is deep. It seemed pretty weak all around.
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The remote station is still in the plan. I've finished the M60s. I'm still debating on whether to put another gun on the commanders hatch. Here's the finished M60s before and after paint.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53916290647_ff3b16f5a3_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q9p5N4")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53917432913_fb22e96c3a_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q9uWmi")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53917532689_268270dd27_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q9vs1z")
Two different shields in keeping with the scrap heap nature of this monster. I finally just stuck the ammo can holder to the side of the gun. I couldn't figure out what else to do and it was holding up everything else.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53917433133_8e4a135e43_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q9uWq6")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53917181361_cf5613f8d0_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q9tDzc")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53917627090_ca608dced0_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q9vW5b")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53917432163_17f660ce6c_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q9uW8n")
I figured who ever was building this might not have enough steel to make all the shields the same but would at least have one big bucket of paint.
If I had rummaged around a little more I would have found this sooner. I could make several more shields out of this. Look familiar Jeff?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53917531949_d3f54925b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q9vrMP)
Been working on the M9 dozer blade. Almost done. Its not the greatest kit but not the worst either. The main problem is the ejector pin marks but most of them are in hard to see spots or standing proud and easy to trim.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53917210891_f1ddce972a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q9tNmk)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53917656875_a9ec2936a7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q9w5VH)
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Dozer blade is finished but doesn’t move up and down the full travel. No problem unless I take it out to the sand box!
I started the RWS so about halfway on that.
Still messing around with the radio antennas.
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I finally glued on the dozer blade. :rolleyes: I had to remove some plastic to clear the tracks but it won't be very noticeable. Glued on some other bit and pieces. Lots more periscopes now. I hope and pray I can get some paint on this tonight. We are leaving on a trip with friends to a lake in Arkansas on Thursday so of course dumb things have popped up. The shutoff valve for the toliet upstairs has started leaking. So wasted time going to the hardware store for a new valve and other supplies to fix it. I already had to replace the tub spout a couple of days ago as it was leaking onto the basement floor every time someone used the shower.
So here's a pic of the beast now.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53922092874_0ea1c94480_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2q9UPAs")
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Definitely coming along regardless of the home repair distractions.
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Back from Arkansas and I actually got some paint sprayed this morning! Huzzah!!
Medium green 34102. Next will be dark green then black and something else. I’m going with the MERDC tropical pattern. I’m going to try to spray on any markings and avoid the clear coats and decal routine. I bought some NATO black for the road wheel tires and tracks.
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Here's what it looks like in green. I've been painting the road wheels and tracks too. I hope this enamel rust and silver plus the acrylic NATO black stick properly to these rubber band tracks.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53959876895_2a7324e423_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qdftt6)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53959420806_516c90d37e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qdd8Tu)
I've been trying to apply the darker green but it's one thing after another in this house. I have to spray right after applying the putty mask as it tends to flatten out and even run if at an angle. I'm not sure this brand is going to work out. I might go back to silly putty.
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It has been said that "Paint hides a multitude of sins" and a good coat of paint really does make it all look better. The junk yard dog is now in the running for "Best of Show." :smiley:
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It has been said that "Paint hides a multitude of sins" and a good coat of paint really does make it all look better. The junk yard dog is now in the running for "Best of Show." :smiley:
Well I don’t know about best of show but thanks a bunch!
If I can pull off this paint job I’ll be happy.
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We'll see where she ends up re: Best of Show, but she's certainly in the running, now! :D
The paint has really pulled it all together. :smiley:
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Thanks mi amigos!
I really want to get on with this but it’s Labor Day weekend here. My wife has a whole list of things to do so no painting this weekend.
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Thanks mi amigos!
I really want to get on with this but it’s Labor Day weekend here. My wife has a whole list of things to do so no painting this weekend.
I thought Labor Day was a day without chores...
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Labor means work! More work for me!
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The coat of paint transformation... working well.
Looks really nice
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Thanks!
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Maybe I can get something done tomorrow. Spouse will be busy all day so no excuse there. I need a plan B if this putty doesn’t work out. I’ve noticed if I leave it on too long it’s difficult to remove completely. I do have plenty of masking tape but that will be difficult over uneven surfaces. And there is lots of that.
Any suggestions for a protective clear coat when I’m done that won’t change the paint color?
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The Dawg is really coming along - I love that first coat when all the desperate parts finally become a whole. :smiley:
I’m sure you will be flooded with recommendations for clear coats various and multitudinous but my two pennies worth would be a warning to stay away from Humbrol and Tamiya - both are rubbish and hugely expensive. I use my local hobby shop’s (Hobbycraft) own brand (gloss and matt) as it gives me the finish I want and I get four times the quantity for half the price - cheap as chips!
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The Dawg is really coming along - I love that first coat when all the desperate parts finally become a whole. :smiley:
I’m sure you will be flooded with recommendations for clear coats various and multitudinous but my two pennies worth would be a warning to stay away from Humbrol and Tamiya - both are rubbish and hugely expensive. I use my local hobby shop’s (Hobbycraft) own brand (gloss and matt) as it gives me the finish I want and I get four times the quantity for half the price - cheap as chips!
Thanks for the tip! I used Tamiya on the whopper choppers and it did change the paint colors.
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I got the second color on today. I'm stoked! It really came out nice. I used masking tape on the armor skirts and silly putty on the vehicle. I only had a couple of spots where the paint didn't separate quite right when I pulled the silly putty off and left a little ridge or a couple of flakes behind. A touch with the hobby knife fixed that.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53974666368_e082838ed5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qeygS1)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53974750069_9a592dcc1a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qeyGK8)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53974750044_ce9cea3c03_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qeyGJG)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53974861745_bca029b9f5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qezgWz)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53974666078_e8ab3ca4c6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qeygM1)
I have to find some light green to finish this job. I tried brush painting olive drab in place of it and it just didn't look right. Something about airbrushing makes brush work stand out like a sore thumb. I have to not rush and get it right.
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Absolutely take your time to do it right, mate, because the finish you've got is excellent, as are the colours! 8)
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You’re right, I have to reengage my patience!
It’s just that I’ll be booked up most of the weekend so it’s grinding my gears right now. And find the proper light green paint. Flat black is no problem.
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The paint and camo are looking perfect. Take your time!
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I’m anxious to install the tracks, road wheels and armor skirts. Finishing touch will be the guns, RWS and antennas. Then we will have the full effect. :wacko:
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Oh, this good.. really good :smiley:
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I’ve ordered paint from True North. They are recreating the Model Master line so this should cooperate with the first two colors. I’ll pass on any more organic chemistry catastrophes.
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This is amazing. Have you had any ideas for stowage or will you keep it slick?
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This is amazing. Have you had any ideas for stowage or will you keep it slick?
I’ve been thinking about where to put a stowage basket. Probably on the engine deck between the louvers. I cast two extra road wheels so I have to find a spot for those. Then there is the kit supplied tools and pieces of track. The top of the dog house is filled up. I haven’t seen any real world pictures of stuff hanging over the ERA panels so maybe it interferes with the function of the panels. Space is at a premium.
We are going away for the weekend plus appointments through Wednesday so maybe the paint will arrive and I can try some more painting by Thursday. I’m going to try a little weathering by spraying a dust coat of light grey or sand or the upper surfaces and something darker on the lower parts. Any suggestions in that regard are appreciated.
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Some more paint. A little flat black for the MERDC pattern. Needless to say I've had to improvise a bit but I'm following the M60 pattern as best I can. So, on to the pics!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53988714044_3b11b019da_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2qfNgKj")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53987504272_e082e87fc0_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2qfG58b")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53988713809_b7f13aa636_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2qfNgFg")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53988403231_52a4098c9e_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2qfLFmt")
It was soooo tempting to try and paint in the black with a brush. You may notice I tried it with olive drab in a couple spots and you could see the brush marks. Got out the silly putty after that and sprayed it on. Brushing would have been quicker but I think the spray turned out much better. I think the difference between the light and dark green stands out much more now. BTW, silly putty has worked out well on this build. Maybe it just gets along better with enamels than acrylics. Hard to say without a degree in chemical engineering. I also managed to mask around a couple of boo boos and covered them up. Next is the True North Interior Green that has not arrived in the mail yet. Soon I hope. I've been working on the tracks and I have one side in place. I hope the CA glue holds. I should add a couple of loops of thread just to be sure. It will be hidden by the skirts anyway. The RWS is just stuck on for now just for the pics. This thing will look so much different with all the fiddly bits attached!
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Yowzaa !! This is really good :smiley:
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I got both tracks on! Progress without much swearing! I had some very thin steel wire I closed the joint with. That won’t come off ever. At least it’s hidden by the skirts. Some of the paint flaked off but not too much. They look like rubber band tracks but I don’t think we’ll ever see replacements.
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Damn! That's looking really good! 8)
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Starting to feel a little over-awed here!
That's brilliant
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That's a damn sexy camo pattern!
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MERDC designed it, I just interpreted it. Thanks my friends!
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Here's a pic or two of the tracks. Since this was taken I added a rod that passed through the hull and pushed the top run of track down to increase the tension. Looks better that way. I still need to tone down the silver and make the rust look a bit more believable.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53991425755_df6cbdab06_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2qg3aQX")
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53991312019_cc8c606349_c.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2qg2A2Z")
I was attempting some touch up painting with a brush. Some turned out great and some has a different sheen that makes it obvious. The worst is on the skirts and that can be resprayed.
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This is coming along very, very, nicely. The cammo is especially good.
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In case anyone is curious how far back into the junkyard I went.
Parts used so far include:
Trumpeter EE-T2 Osario
Academy Bradley hatches, periscopes and tail lights
AFV Cub Stryker hatches and RWS
Academy M9 dozer blade
Tamiya M48 headlights
Italeri M60 Blazer ERA for casting masters
Tamiya M41 Walker Bulldog commanders periscope
Probably Tamiya Japanese tank front mudflaps
Lots of junk box parts
UV casting resin
Model Master and Testors enamel paints
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Haven't been counting the sources.. but the all appear to be in the right places :smiley:
Consider me inspired ;)
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Looking great! :smiley:
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Send me your junk and I might just make something out of it!
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I'm trying to assemble a luggage rack for the engine deck as per the Israeli Puma. The last little bit of some grey Plastruc I beam and some other junk box stuff. Crazy how well the Plastruc part fits with the rest. I'll see how this goes and if I'm happy with it when finished and painted. As I have some repainting to do on the skirts this will get painted at the same time.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53998462884_99daa36444_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qgEeJL)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53998462904_36ccfb4cf8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qgEeK7)
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Weird collection of bits there, :-\
Hope it comes together for you (it's looking like it should at the moment). :smiley:
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This is something I've struggled with. Are you going to use mesh? I've been trying to find some to print but oddly enough no one makes sheets of mesh as an .stl
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Try a fabric shop and get some wedding veil material. If you cut it diagonally it looks just like fence mesh or if you cut parallel then it looks like fish net. Perfect on tanks. There might be different size mesh available.
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Tule (the wedding veil material) works well and comes in several sizes.
Printing a mesh with a resin printer would be difficult, depending on the mesh line diameter. For the finer meshes, each layer would be very delicate after it's printed.
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I finished the stowage rack. Looks pretty good. I painted it and other parts that needed touch up so that’s done. I’m still waiting for the paint I ordered. Once I get that I might just finish this beast!
I really want to finish this in time for my club’s annual show and contest on October 12.
I swear I had some of the tule in the parts department but now of course I can’t find it. It’s in a drawer or a box somewhere around here.
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I found the tule fabric! I cut two strips and glued them to the inside of the rack. It was like applying decals that didn’t want to behave. It looks good but now I have to paint it again. No problem.
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I managed to paint the stowage rack and a few loose parts after clearing a clogged drain in the basement. Sure being a homeowner is wonderful. So is being a plumber, electrician, carpenter and brick layer!
Hopefully I’ll get to the final color tomorrow. Too late anymore tonight.
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Gads this is nice. :smiley:
Been doing summer car & house stuff, not following BTS enough. Appreciate picture history.
Building rack is its own neat project. :smiley:
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Here's the stowage rack. Not too shabby if I say so myself.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54006906799_db2b31fcb5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qhpvPv)
Rack in place temporarily.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54006806173_1f837d2d55_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qhoZUz)
With some DUKE antennas in place using silly putty.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54006579301_3a1df8440d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qhnQsZ)
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The rack is top notch! :smiley:
But it does limit engine compartment access somewhat. :-\
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The idea is that the rack splits in half to allow the engine doors to open. Or something like that…..
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I took the junkyard dog to my club meeting. It was well received by even the die hard RW builders. They seem to have gotten used to me by now.
Ack!!! Something is eating my model! No, It's just the silly putty.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54015070380_fd7903dbce_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qi8myU)
Final paint and some fiddly bits attached. The last color was Interior Green by True North and is pretty hard to see. It's funny how the Model Master paint dried just fine on the silly putty but the True North got sort of half dry and got all over my fingers as I pulled it off. On the model it's fine. So I just tossed that silly putty and will get more for next time.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54015063050_c1dd23b63a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qi8jow)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54015062600_dbe9ecbc5e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qi8jfL)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54015061735_2c978216c8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qi8iZR)
My question now is what color to paint these exhaust ports. The instructions say gunmetal but I've painted the deeper parts NATO black. I'll think of something.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54013735802_a50573bb54_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qi1vQW)
Now I have to write up a description to go with the entry for my club's contest on Oct 12.
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Looks convincing RW special function vehicle to me. :smiley:
A description written as creatively as the build otta convince all but well knowing viewers it is RW. :smiley:
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This is a truly excellent piece of work, mate! 8)
If you don't think the gunmetal will give sufficient contrast, you could try metallic grey or steel. :smiley:
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Thanks everyone!
The photos show little ridges at the edges of the paint colors from the silly putty. Just enough to bug me. I've scraped a few of them off verrrry carefully with a #11 knife. I'll have to restrain myself before I screw something up.
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Maybe sand them down carefully with a 600 or 1000 grit foambacked sanding pad or stick? If you're careful, you can even make it look like it's part of the weathering.
Sanding sponge range (https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/browse.php?kw=Sanding,Sponge) from Scale Hobbyist or Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Sanding-Sponge-Sheet-1000/dp/B00CUDW8LE)
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Very nice build and admirable patience with the paint scheme! :-* :-* :-*
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I’ve gotten a little more done. This fitting of the radio antennas is a pain! I used the uv resin to make lenses for the RWS, looks nice. I’m adding some search lights to the gun shields and to the top of the doghouse facing forward. MRAP vehicles in Iraq were covered in lights! Constantly touching up paint here and there and to the radio antenna stuff.
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I think I've attached everything I can think of. Last of the touch up paint I hope. No idea what to do for markings. I don't want to do decals because then I'll have to glosscoat and the colors might change. I might get brave and spray something on. It might be a problem with all the stuff I've attached. I'll figure out if its worth it. On to the pictures!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54023584532_ba4f38d4b2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiSZwC)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024479536_642106eb29_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiXzzJ)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024714133_aed39023d2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiYMjv)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54023583727_ea8866f8a1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiSZhK)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024478271_6abaeb784e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiXzcV)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024919190_180eb03528_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiZQgY)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024474546_5c8f0979ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiXy6G)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024709153_3ddba18517_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiYKQD)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024473916_f96af63770_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiXxUQ)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024705553_dc6b6a8dab_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiYJLz)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024804709_ebd7158db0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiZffa)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024804784_dd8bf10578_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiZfgs)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54024914795_8994ed66a0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiZNYc)
It should have a base with some palm trees and jungle growth. That's for another day. I hope you've all enjoyed this one.
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I certainly have ! 8)
"Comin' through! Comin' through! Get outta the way or you'll wish you had!"
She's a real beast! :D
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Awesome can sometimes be overused as a descriptor but in this case it hits the nail on the head! I love it! :-* :-* :-*
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Thanks everyone!
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A beast, indeed. And a gorgeous build :-*
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Terrific job and great camo scheme!
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This is a great build. I love the RWS - It looks like the AFV M151 kit
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What all the others said. Am sure the army needs some. 8) :-*
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This is a great build. I love the RWS - It looks like the AFV M151 kit
It is and that kit donated a few other parts too!
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That's why I love that kit! The M151 is nice and all, but the extra sprues have so many good parts on them!
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Thanks again everyone!
I just remembered I have to install some “glass” in the commanders vision scope. Looks a little empty.
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Is it going onto a base?
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Is it going onto a base?
It should! But not at this time. I'm taking it to my club's show on Oct 12 so not enough time for that to be done right. It'll need lots of Brazilian jungle growth.
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I entered the Junkyard Dog in my club’s contest yesterday. It got a second place in the conversion and scratch built category. Not too bad I think.
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I entered the Junkyard Dog in my club’s contest yesterday. It got a second place in the conversion and scratch built category. Not too bad I think.
:smiley: :smiley:
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I entered the Junkyard Dog in my club’s contest yesterday. It got a second place in the conversion and scratch built category. Not too bad I think.
Nice to get a result. Even better to be participating and get your stuff out to be seen by your modelling peers.
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There’s a couple more contests coming up in the area so I’ll enter it there. We’ll see what happens.
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I’m in Fine Scale Modeler forum! I’m famous! ;D
https://finescale.com/online-extras/show-galleries/2025/05/roscoe-turner-indianapolis-invitational-scale-model-contest-photo-gallery?oly_enc_id=7132E8713201G7B
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Well done on the placing & getting into FSM, Ken! :smiley: :smiley:
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:smiley:
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I’m in Fine Scale Modeler forum! I’m famous! ;D
And rightly so! Congrats :smiley:
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I’m in Fine Scale Modeler forum! I’m famous! ;D
Very cool! 8)
Autographs all round please… ;)
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Nice to get the nod.. it is a great build :smiley:
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Thanks everyone!