This is going to be both a build and brief technical study of the "Resting Staker from Universe of "STALKER" games":
Spalah Stalker
First off, this is a
flawless 3D print. There are no layer lines visible, so they're printing with around 20um (micron) layer height and roughly 20um pixel size. The painting guide is a color sheet with color callouts. There's what appears to be a flat spot at the top of the head, but it's more apparent in the pictures than on the print. So maybe a 99.9% flawless print.
For fellow 3D printers, their supports are interesting. They're using medium or small supports with a small contact area (The contact area is 0.35-0.4mm) and they use quite a few. The result is again, a flawless print with no deformation of the part. Here's zoom from their
ATV Quadrobike
The box contains the stalker, a wooden (ammo?) box and an axe. Here's the figure right out of the box:

I removed the supports with care. One trick when removing supports from a thick or large piece is to use a hair dryer on high on the supports for about 10 seconds. This softens the contact points and the supports can be removed with a finger, leaving little or no damage on the part. This
only works on thick or large parts that have a higher thermal mass than the supports, so they don't deform. If the part is thin, or is the diameter of the supports or smaller, the hair dryer method
will deform the part or break it off. Use caution. For instance, I cut the supports from the fingers and from the axe with cutters, first, but used the hair dryer on the underside of the figure and on the box.
Here is the figure, ready to paint:

Painting should be easier since there's no face to paint.