Beyond The Sprues
Current and Finished Projects => Physical Models => Land => Topic started by: Frank3k on February 15, 2025, 03:48:54 AM
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I have a spare Tamiya M-41 lower hull and tracks that Jeff sent me a while ago. I want to make a cargo tractor or tracked exploration using the hull. The first thing was to reverse the tracks and "direction" placing the engine in front.
The inspiration is the "Kharkovchanka", a Soviet Antarctic vehicle. It just won't be as big:
(https://i.redd.it/fkt3f49fqu291.png)
The first variation of the cab was as wide as the tracks, and slopes up to the rear, where it would connect to a shelter (ignore the stringing - it may be due to the humidity):
(https://i.imgur.com/DtG570W.jpeg)
Top view:
(https://i.imgur.com/peEwRHD.jpeg)
It seems too big for the hull, so I made a shorter and narrower version that would allow for some fenders on the sides of the cab. The cargo or shelter would still be as wide as the tracks:
(https://i.imgur.com/OOUooxb.jpeg)
But the roof slant bothered me, so I made a version with a flat roof:
(https://i.imgur.com/7D9JzcU.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4Yw0VlN.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ALhxTF5.jpeg)
I may try a flat roof version that's as wide as the tracks, but I can't decide if I should make it as tall as the shelter (which would be about 2m/ 6.6' high) or as tall as the last picture, only wide. I'll add the rest of the cab details once I pick the size. Any suggestions?
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I would go with the full width flat roof cab that’s a little taller. But that’s just my $0.02.
This will be fun to watch. It just made me think that I have a Heller Leopard kit in the stash that sucks but might work for this sort of vehicle. Anybody want a Leopard turret and upper hull? The upper parts aren’t too bad.
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Very Nice.
2nd Ken's idea on a cab you that stand up in. I like the astrodome.
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Chiming in to add a third voice to Kericks' recommendation. More space inside plus reduction of debris being tossed up by the tracks while travelling overland.
Have to also say that your ability to create a 'rough draft' by 3D printing is a major leap forward in creativity. My own interpretations on this concept involved trashing the Renwal/Revell Mace Missile TeraCruzer vehicle to obtain the cab for a similar vehicle but based on the M8 High-Speed Tractor which shares most of the M41 components along with a longer hull.
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Jeff - the M8 high speed tractor is part of the inspiration. These cabs take about 1-2 hours to print, especially if I print at high speed, "draft" quality.
I decided to make a wide but shallow cab, since it's almost identical in height to the cab of the M977. I'm not sure I like the results. The driver would obviously have to scoot to the right a bit to keep the control levers above the hull body:
(https://i.imgur.com/Pe27MqD.jpeg)
There's some ringing in the print (wavy vertical lines) - which means I have to calibrate the printer better or slow it down - but it's a draft print, so good enough for now:
(https://i.imgur.com/ZvVf95e.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YRzcy2K.jpeg)
With the same height but narrower cab, I would add fenders over the tracks, but the cargo or shelter would go directly over the tracks. Something like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/lwi9uUr.jpeg)
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I foresee railings for the fenders. Cool!
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@Frank - As far as the position of the vehicle driver goes, why not place the driver in the center of the cab with passengers on either side in a similar arrangement as found in the Alvis Stalwart. That simplifies things easily enough as to the driver control issues and perhaps allows you to place an entrance to the van body directly behind the driver for connectivity and ease of access.
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Nice, never heard a lot of people complaining about too much space or room in a supply vehicle.
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Full width cab with the driver seated in the middle, with lackeys either side. :smiley:
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I thought of the driver in the middle, but right now there's a motor and radiator cover in the way. I could move them.
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Random idea, but what about making the sides of the cab angled?
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f7/3%29_Oshkosh-produced_M1083_A1P2_5-ton_MTV_cargo_in_A-%3Dkit_configuration.jpg/1024px-3%29_Oshkosh-produced_M1083_A1P2_5-ton_MTV_cargo_in_A-%3Dkit_configuration.jpg)
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That’s an interesting looking truck. What type is that?
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Its an Oshkosh M1083, its the same truck used for the M142 HIMARS.
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Thanks for the suggestion, Mig Eater. I drew up a wide cab version inspired by the M1083. The light bar has LEDs (round lenses) and orange formation/warning lights:
(https://i.imgur.com/IFPzkJU.jpeg)
Here's are some quick print of the cab minus extras to see how it looks:
(https://i.imgur.com/yBPcOk6.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OwzIewr.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fdXSM8T.jpeg)
The floor plate is from an earlier print - it won't extend from the bottom of the cab. I also drew up (but didn't print) a narrow cab version. I'll finish adding details to the cab and I'll do a test print in resin while I work on the interior. I think the driver can still sit in the left (or right) seat - the control linkages can be angled; no reason they can't be hydraulic or electric vs direct mechanical linkages.
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I approve of this latest version!
Also, Steve says his sport coat is a little thin. It’s getting chilly.
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Thanks for the suggestion
Looks good, having the two small windows on the sides was exactly what I had in mind too :smiley:
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The latest test print looks like the best fit so far.
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Building up to the point where it will all come together.
One of the really good things with 3D prototyping is getting options out relatively quickly. I might take 3 hours to print, can almost guarantee it would take almost 3 hours or more to scratchbuild from sheet as well to the same level
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That is a wiiiiide cabin. Looks pretty neat in that format-really gives the vehicle a sense of mass.
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I'm still working on the CAD for the cabin - currently trying to figure out the interior - in the meantime, I printed out some seats, radios and bits.
The seats and the two random equipment boxes came from this 1/35 Pantsir-S1 combat compartment interior (https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-pantsir-s1-combat-compartment-interior-149119). One of the other seats was this seat: 1/10 scale car seat (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2346023/files), scaled down to 1/35. I also printed yet more of the radio set I designed a couple of years ago and have since used in several builds. At some point, I'll CAD and print another style.
Prints are in Siraya Fast Navy Grey ABS-Like resin. I love the color, finish and speed of this resin. I didn't angle the prints, since the parts don't have details on their undersides. They also printed faster. The seats have some stepping - which should go away under a coat of paint.
After washing:
(https://i.imgur.com/22LKBng.jpeg)
After removing the supports (although some parts still need cleanup):
(https://i.imgur.com/xUe8ius.jpeg)
Closeup of my radio, still on the supports:
(https://i.imgur.com/tJXGRl6.jpeg)
the handles on all the radios printed beautifully. They're very thin (about 0.25mm thick) and would usually break off in the cleaning machine. This time I cleaned the parts with a spray of denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) from a spray bottle and it worked great.
Here are the parts off the supports - some cleanup still needed:
(https://i.imgur.com/ioN1UyF.jpeg)
These are the two random boxes from the Pantsir files:
(https://i.imgur.com/sNkweGy.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/adbnpyo.jpeg)
The cutting mat squares are 1cm on a side, so they're pretty small.
I tacked the seats into the FDM printed cabin and I was able to fit four, with plenty of space left. If I redo the engine cover, I could probably fit 5-6.
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Just terrific work on those bits and pieces
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This interior will deserve big windows to see all this goodness! Or maybe a lift off cabin roof?
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Do you use a washing station Frank?
Those are amazing prints
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:icon_alabanza: :icon_alabanza:
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Do you use a washing station Frank?
Those are amazing prints
I have a wash and cure station, but the washing action causes parts to slam into each other, so they can be damaged. Also, the washing isn't the best. I've found that dunking the parts up and down in alcohol for a few seconds in the wash tank gets the worst of the uncured resin off. Spraying the parts with alcohol, followed by a brush where there's stubborn spots left works the best, by far. I then cure it in the station and that works well.
The Siraya resin is top notch. Darker resins are better if you want to maximize detail.
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... in the meantime, I printed out some seats, radios and bits...
That is one hell of a print-run! And amazing detail on those smaller parts :smiley:
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I paid for that build plate! Surprisingly, I didn't completely fill it. Adding more parts doesn't take longer (just uses more resin).
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This one went on the back burner for a while, for a stupid reason - I couldn't figure out the best interior layout, the floor and the back wall. So after a lot of faffing about, I decided to just print both cabin styles and the doors.
In the picture below, the supports are off and the parts are fully cured but they still need cleaning. The discoloration is from not thoroughly mixing the resin in the vat (it's been sitting there for a while). It's just cosmetic. The LED light covers were too thin and didn't print properly and the external AC units were literally printed microns too high and luckily, they just popped off in my hands (and not in the vat). I'm using a slightly different CAD modeling workflow, which makes it easier to modify the design, but it also means I have to be more careful before I save the file, so i don't miss objects... like one of the windshield wiper posts:
(https://i.imgur.com/3Ci7Lvv.jpg)
I still have to remove the support nubs. This is a slicer detail - I can make the support contact points smaller so they don't leave these nubs (or leave craters), but there are pluses and minuses. Since the cabs are heavy/large, I went with the larger support contact points/depth. This is a door - inside and outside. The nubs on the inside look like bolts, but They'll have to come off:
(https://i.imgur.com/ivwvQ9a.jpg)
The inside, where all the heavy lifting (or supporting) is done looks bad. The AC units took some damage when I removed the supports:
(https://i.imgur.com/GiFT60b.jpg)
Doors on both:
(https://i.imgur.com/74sWrdA.jpg)
I used the FDM printed floor and placed it on the M41 lower hull. The hole on the lower rear of the cab may be the hold to swing the cab forward to access the engine compartment:
(https://i.imgur.com/d8Q61oK.jpg)
Same with the LED version:
(https://i.imgur.com/SGTvRzK.jpg)
Here I reversed the lower hull, so the drive is right next to the engine. Shorter transmission distance:
(https://i.imgur.com/cb7Pbzh.jpg)
Here's Nigel modeling the seats I printed earlier:
(https://i.imgur.com/UL0dYZg.jpg)
It's both a roomy and cramped interior:
(https://i.imgur.com/FxgktTd.jpg)
As much as I liked the LED light bar version in CAD, I like it a lot less in reality, so I may just stick with the regular cab.
I may also just reprint the regular cab with the doors closed. It solved the issue with ultra detailing the interior, but still allows the interior to be seen through the windows.
I may just print the floor on my FDM and print some of the details (like the engine cover) in the resin printer. I may do the same with the rear wall of the cab.
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How about the cannisters & such for an NBC Overpressure system, since this thing reeks of being in the support train of an Atomic Annie?
https://www.warhistoryonline.com/cold-war/atomic-annie-cannon.html (https://www.warhistoryonline.com/cold-war/atomic-annie-cannon.html)
https://taskandpurpose.com/history/army-nuclear-tests-desert-rock/ (https://taskandpurpose.com/history/army-nuclear-tests-desert-rock/)
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The cab came out great!
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Liking this one already. Can tell its gunna be good.
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Drive sprocket at the front = double-plus good.
LMK if might want to try using the lower hull from the Academy 1:35th scale M551 Sheridan. I have some that are gathering dust/taking up space. :smiley:
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I would have to try and make snow cat style tracks somehow. Sounds like research might take me up to Alaska! Or at least the Rocky Mountains.
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Working very well, the seats look great
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Thanks, guys. Jeff - let me think about the Sheridan lower hull. I think it's wider than the M41.
I decided to reprint the cabin with fresher resin and a different orientation, but with the doors "glued" shut. I also printed the back wall and floor flat on the build plate. Doing this has some issues since there tends to be an "elephant's foot" where the model meets the base, caused by the longer exposure required to stick objects to the build plate. The effect was minor in this case, although the floor parts warped slightly after I cured them - I made them too thin. Expanses of thin, flat resin will warp.
Here's the cabin. I wanted to leave a small gap between the door and the cabin. I didn't properly support the thin window frame and it peeled away. I may just putty and rescribe or cut the doors out. I haven't removed all the supports at the rear of the cabin and they almost look like they belong, but I'll remove them.
(https://i.imgur.com/eoyhObb.jpg)
I supported the cabin with the front facing straight down into the vat (vs the previous prints, where the roof was facing the vat). It meant fewer supports in the interior. You can see one of the floor prints to the right (and one of the back wall prints):
(https://i.imgur.com/bcG34IZ.jpg)
Cab with the back wall. I still need to sand the back wall edges down a bit:
(https://i.imgur.com/0AaBiwu.jpg)
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@Frank - you are right about those support nubs. They certainly do look like they belong on the rear cabin wall.
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@Frank - you are right about those support nubs. They certainly do look like they belong on the rear cabin wall.
Agreed. Somehow that line of nubs make it look as if the Cargo M41 will just go faster ;D
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@Frank - you are right about those support nubs. They certainly do look like they belong on the rear cabin wall.
Agreed. Somehow that line of nubs make it look as if the Cargo M41 will just go faster ;D
Speed Bumps? :smiley:
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Third time's the charm, I guess. There has to be a 3D printing equivalent of "measure twice, cut once". I played with the previously printed parts and came up with a better orientation on the build plate. I made the floor thicker and attached the engine cover and back wall to it in my CAD program. The exterior of the back wall stays the same. The slots on the floor are for the Pantsir style seats I printed earlier.
I was careful with the cab supports, so it minimized external and internal support nubs. Same with the doors, which I printed vertically.
Parts:
(https://i.imgur.com/msEYD46.jpg)
With one door tacked on. The M41 looks small (the cab is big - twice the length of the HEMTT's cab, about 25% taller):
(https://i.imgur.com/hbWmwPK.jpg)
With the door open. The other door (with no support marks) is on the mat. The white residue is from wet sanding the visible supports:
(https://i.imgur.com/3IWnoRF.jpg)
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This is so cool. The design work on the 3D elements is first class.
Build is ok too. ;D
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:smiley: :smiley:
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@Frank -- Why bother removing the tiny bumps? I think they do a great job in suggesting that the cab is assembled from multiple components and retained in place by fasteners to allow quick removal of each component if it needs replacement due to damage, etc. That way the "speed bumps" from the support structure can remain and be part of the model back story description.
That said, it looks great!
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Thanks, guys!
Jeff - the support bumps look ugly to me - the exterior is supposed to just have the plate armor? bolts holding them in place (or as bolts for additional armor).
Next, I'll come up with a cargo area and start building the cab.
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Agreed frank, the support points are small but in most cases just don’t look right. Can be aright pill to remove as well if in out of the way places
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Supports are a battle between getting the print to print correctly (or at all) and an ugly mess of pips or craters. I have to play with the support heads - size and depth. The supports I've been using peel off easily in warm to hot water (after the parts have been cleaned but not cured). This isn't always possible, since curing can warp thin parts and leaving the supports in helps reduce warping.
While looking for parts for this build, I came across the partially built hull of the 1/35 M270 NATO MLRS. It had been rattling around in my stash since the early 90s. I eventually parted it out, with the rocket parts going to Jeff and the cab to another project. I have the wheels and track and some other parts in one of my spare parts boxes. so I decided to put one of the cabs on the hull:
(https://i.imgur.com/xca8p3e.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Hrw1TQX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rfa2VSs.jpg)
The cab fits perfectly. If I remove the engine box, I can move it back and allow the forward tow hooks to be used. I don't think I would have gotten this good of a fit if I'd done it intentionally. I guess I have to print another cab.
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Good call. Double the load capacity space already
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Looks much better on the MLRS hull.
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Currently printing another cabin and the walls for the M41 cargo section. I started to scratchbuild it, but I realized that the CAD + Printing time would be much less. Here's what's cooking on the plate:
I looked at images of M1078 trucks and "borrowed" the cargo wall details and the taillights:
(https://i.imgur.com/KoijgX2.jpg)
The floor of the cargo area and the front fenders were printed on my FDM printer. I may have to reprint it to make it slightly longer, or adjust the cab position:
(https://i.imgur.com/HkI6MVA.jpg)
Hopefully it'll look like this on the M41:
(https://i.imgur.com/oxnz2He.jpg)
Tomorrow it's time to don the meth lab resin printer PPE and wash and cure the print.
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No barrier at the front of the cargo bed? It looks unsupported without some kind of connection to the opposite side walls. Other than that, I like it a lot! Nice, Nice, Baby! See what I did there? :smiley:
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The wall at the front of the cabin is basically a blank, fat U shape (flat wall, two uprights at the ends), so I'll either print a flat slab on my FDM printer or cut out some styrene to match. Printing thin flat pieces on a resin printer can be a pain. I also have to figure something out for the machine gun hole over the cabin.
I was thinking of ways of disabling/defeating drones - especially fiber optics drones - that could protect a large area. Hmmm... maybe EMPs or microwaves? it turns out that the Epirus Leonidas (https://www.epirusinc.com/electronic-warfare#:~:text=Human%20Safe,people%20and%20friendly%20assets%20alike.) is making one. I may make that an option for the MRLS version.
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Another great new release from Kits by Frank or Frankenkits :smiley:
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This is looking better and better!
The MLRS hull really looks good. I should think a Bradley hull would work too.
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I didn't put enough resin in the vat, so the second cab didn't fully print. There were some other issues, but the cargo side panels came out nicely:
(https://i.imgur.com/BpQHGbb.jpg)
I accidentally pulled both of the tail light holders off their supports a bit too quickly and damaged them, but they still look good:
(https://i.imgur.com/SS1HPXc.jpg)
You can see sub-millimeter bolts on the original prints.
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Iknow it's a real-world build, but I get a real SHADO Shado Mobile vibe. Great printing, Frank.
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Craig, it's not really real world... it could easily be a "modern" version of a Shado mobile. Just need to add the "office" in back.
I reprinted the side panels, because I forgot about the hooks on the sides and accidentally tore them off when I was removing the supports.
The hooks are 0.5mm in diameter:
(https://i.imgur.com/n1Wds84.jpg)
I doubt that they'll survive the build and paint stages; I knocked one off just by moving the panel - hit it with a stray finger. I was able to glue it back on. If they break off again, I'll just use thin copper wire.
I also printed some more copies of the Land Rover winch I made more than 6 years ago (part of the "I paid for the full build plate and I'm going to use it, dammit!" rule.). I accidentally crushed some of the guards around the tow cable drum, but they can be replaced. The tow cable itself is 0.3mm. It definitely won't survive anything stronger than a sneeze:
(https://i.imgur.com/DtYSoL8.jpg)
I think I'll start building and painting the interior of the cabs and get those out of the way.
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I tried printing a paper instrument panel (based on the M1083) but it looked awful. So I 3D printed it instead, based on the M1083 Technical manual and some pictures. There are some mods and it's a bit smaller than it should be, but I didn't want it to interfere with the steering yoke.
(https://i.imgur.com/2OqClo0.jpg)
Some of the details are hard to make out, so I ran an AK Olive drab pen over it:
(https://i.imgur.com/TbPeRj6.jpg)
I made about 20. Only need 2 Some of the instrument dials didn't quite print, so I have about 15 good ones.
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I ended up reprinting the instrument panels to be closer to 1/35. I also started on the cab interior.
Instrument panel with decals (wet because they have decal setting solution on them):
(https://i.imgur.com/1vlsKFB.jpg)
The white dials with black squared corners were cut out from a kit decal. The other dials are from a 1/32 Airscale set.
Here are the seats, AC controls/vents and a purse equipment shelf, plus two fire extinguishers:
(https://i.imgur.com/beSwXYY.jpg)
Hopefully I can close this up this week and move on to the rest of the vehicle.
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This whole build is great :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: 8)
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Awesome job!
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Neat build. Looking forward to it being finished. You may have to change those seats tho -they look too comfortable for such a vehicle ;D
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Maybe the comfy seats is what's making this build d r a g on for so long.
I added the clear windows, then gave them a clear blue coat, which inexplicably turned mat... so out they came and once clean and back in place, got another coat with heavily thinned Tamiya clear blue... which went on clear, but promptly attracted every cat hair in the house. I'll probably have to redo them again.
The interior, at least, is almost finished. I added a radio/radar/control box from the 3D printed Pantisr interior. The decals are from the Space:1999 nuclear waste kit. The large blue decal is one I printed for a computer display, but at this resolution, it looks like a speaker:
(https://i.imgur.com/fG4rkes.jpg)
In place. Everything looks crooked - some parts are, others just look that way:
(https://i.imgur.com/6w3o0Te.jpg)
Seat side, with my patented radio, on a shelf:
(https://i.imgur.com/vAuv4qs.jpg)
view aft:
(https://i.imgur.com/ug34V23.jpg)
Maybe if I'm lucky, I'll be able to close the doors, put the cabin together, mask the windows and move on to the rest of the build. Next time I build something like this, I won't have so many windows.
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Now you’ll have to make them look frosted over except for the spots the crew keeps scraping from the inside! ;)
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Dang,,, is this good or what !
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This is so good :smiley:
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This is where I am so far. The black foam will become cargo:
(https://i.imgur.com/mpdvtJ9.jpg)
Every windshield window pooped in a bit. At least I can fix some of it through the weapons station plug. I cut out some styrene and added nuts & bolts and a couple of hooks to what had been the lower rear of the M41:
(https://i.imgur.com/E6xQMzT.jpg)
The tracks and rubber pads are painted, even though it doesn't look like it in these pictures. The exhaust location isn't the best, but it lust looked bad anywhere else:
(https://i.imgur.com/NW8oV4u.jpg)
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Coming together really nicely, Frank! :smiley: :smiley:
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Looking great!
I guess the only other obvious place for the exhaust is behind the cab but then it would be vulnerable to damage from the cargo, so I think where you have it is fine. 👍
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Lower rear isn't ideal, but there's plenty of clearance. I tried it on the cab side going up and horizontal on the top of the cab, overhanging the cargo area. I also tried it vertically just inside the cargo area. I kept thinking of the poor goober burning his hand on the heat shield or slamming a box against the exhaust system. I could have increased the gap between the cab and cargo, but it gave the vehicle a very unbalanced look.
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Other than where you have it now the only other possible location might be to place the engine exhaust under the fenders above the tracks. Side benefit of that would be heat on tracks to remove ice from the treads. :smiley:
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Added a painted tarp and straps and painted the rubber on the road wheels. I'm debating painting the return rollers as well, or let them be a casualty of the weathering:
(https://i.imgur.com/s4hOaat.jpg)
With Steve and the motorcycle guy from DML:
(https://i.imgur.com/wQWjspf.jpg)
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:smiley: :smiley: :smiley:
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Great job so far! The dapper Steve looks like he is ready to take it out for a Sunday drive along the PCH. The guy in the back looks like he is trying to sneak out a #2.
What sand did you use?
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I used AK Interactive 3rd Gen MERDC Sand - Fs30277 (AKI 11343) and Pale Sand - Fs23722 (AKI 11032). I'll probably give it a thin coat of MERDC Sand again, from the bottom up.
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@Frank - what did you use for the cover over your load of foam in the back? I can see some texture in the material but unable to recognize what it was before it became a cover on the load.
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Jeff, I used a civilian version of K.L.E.E.N.E.X. T.I.S.S.U.E. (Kevlar Light Engagement Environment, Non-EXplosive Transportation Integration System for Single Use Enclosures)
Painted in shades of green.
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Jeff, I used a civilian version of K.L.E.E.N.E.X. T.I.S.S.U.E. (Kevlar Light Engagement Environment, Non-EXplosive Transportation Integration System for Single Use Enclosures)
Painted in shades of green.
Love that, will have to file it for future use :smiley: I have used pattern embossed toilet paper for trailer cammo covers too.
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Jeff, I used a civilian version of K.L.E.E.N.E.X. T.I.S.S.U.E. (Kevlar Light Engagement Environment, Non-EXplosive Transportation Integration System for Single Use Enclosures)
Painted in shades of green.
It looks very authentic with your paint applied to it. The CLOROX Brand wipes had a texture to them that would also work for that purpose.
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I have some down in the car, as well as some old color catcher sheets. Those were going to be the main sources. The kleenex was supposed to be a test of mixing white glue and painting, but it came out good enough for government work.
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The sand looks great. Thanks for the paint info. I will have to look those up. Looks like a close match for the modern US armor sand.
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There's a slight difference, with the MERDEC Sand a little warmer. The AK 3rd gen paints are acrylic and have great coverage, but are somewhat different in use from more common acrylics like Vallejo or Tamiya. They can't be thinned with alcohol and are pigment dense, so they have to be mixed carefully. They go on beautifully, though.
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Finally, finally done with this build. The finish has dust and cat hairs in it, some of the resin started to warp, the plastic for the windows have partially popped out of place, but I don't care.
(https://i.imgur.com/ieBQspF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KTppWPT.jpg)
The rear view mirrors are copper wire and two plastic bits. I cut out the red headlights from the tail assemblies that I designed and printed. The windshield wipers are ones I printed, modified for these windows:
(https://i.imgur.com/Jk9cnke.jpg)
Steve, as usual, doesn't think too highly of this whole setup - too slow:
(https://i.imgur.com/fvsYyl9.jpg)
The cargo tractor is called "Cargo Cult" - appropriate name (and also the name of a Culture ship) The vehicle code is the year and month that I finished it and the month (02) that I started this build. I don't know why it has a green tint, but I'll leave it as is:
(https://i.imgur.com/R8XBDw7.jpg)
With Steve:
(https://i.imgur.com/yiEflkv.jpg)
Rear view. The tail lights and tow hook assemblies came out pretty nice. The reflectors are orange, but they look red. I forgot to put the vehicle serial number on the rear:
(https://i.imgur.com/IzvG4Kt.jpg)
I noticed that I forgot the antenna. Luckily Felix dropped a whisker the other day, and it came in handy. It may not be accurate, but he's been a good modelling helper:
(https://i.imgur.com/WjYOiwM.jpg)
Thanks for following along with this ordeal of a build. I appreciate all the comments. And thanks to Jeff for providing the lower hull.
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Looks good to me! :smiley: :smiley: 8)
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As always, a great idea, great build and great finish. Bravo Sir, bravo! :-* :-*
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That you chose for it to be a present day USMC vehicle adds 34.7% more believability, since the Marines bemoan their curse of hand-me-down antiquated systems.
It also means that the following (along with all other self-criticisms) falls under *I meant to do that* since that's how vehicles circle-X'd off the deadline lot really look.
The finish has dust and cat hairs in it, some of the resin started to warp, the plastic for the windows have partially popped out of place, but I don't care.
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Looks great and very believable, you can easily imagine it roaming around some remote US base in the middle east :smiley:
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Excellent project brought to completion. Even if Steve bemoans its low top speed, he'll appreciate it hauling all sorts of creature comforts out to a remote shooting location for him.
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Don’t worry about the sand paint colors. There were vehicles parked next to each other with different shades of sand color. It’s all about which vehicle got painted in what place by painters using whatever manufacturer’s paint showed up that day. Some got painted before leaving the US by a manufacturer or in a depot. Some got painted in country by a contractor. Some got painted by the unit mechanics. Others never got painted at all and were left in NATO camo. Then there were the vehicles with replaced parts that might have been in NATO colors or sand and mismatched on various vehicles. You never knew what might be in the motor pool or on the road. Then there was the rented civilian trucks, SUVs and construction equipment. We had several green gator ATVs and yellow front end loaders. Yup, paint colors don’t mean as much to me as to some folks.
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Thanks, guys. I really appreciate the comments. This was a drag.
I picked USMC for some of the reasons Story mentioned - new hardware on old hand me downs.
What's funny is that this is the second Tamiya M41 kit that I've used for a mostly 3D printed build, yet I've never put together the original kit (at least not to the point of paint). I have an AFV Club M41 that I'll build as the real thing, eventually.
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Terrific job as always! Very cool design.
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Jeff, I used a civilian version of K.L.E.E.N.E.X. T.I.S.S.U.E. (Kevlar Light Engagement Environment, Non-EXplosive Transportation Integration System for Single Use Enclosures)...
;D ;D ;D
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My wife asked me what I used for the cargo covered; she thought it was an old t-shirt or something. K.L.E.E.N.E.X. T.I.S.S.U.E. glued in place with some white glue mixed with water seems to be a winning combo. I'm surprised that it didn't tear (although it was very delicate).
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I think you have a sound, solid build here. Sure it might not be competition standard to your eyes, but here it works and works very well.
The concept is sound and well executed.. take at least one short bow :smiley: :smiley:
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One thing I'm excited about this build - I didn't break off any of the hooks on the sides of the cargo bay during painting, weathering and handling!
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One thing I'm excited about this build - I didn't break off any of the hooks on the sides of the cargo bay during painting, weathering and handling!
Here, the little things do literally matter. This is a victory so, as Buzzbomb said, take a bow :smiley:
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Damn fine work!! Baby brother to M8A1