Modelling > Tips, Tools & Techniques
3D Printing Tips and Techniques
apophenia:
--- Quote from: robunos on July 31, 2021, 01:58:20 AM ---... I made a few simple tools myself ...
--- End quote ---
Dang those are clever :smiley:
Frank3k:
A video by Scale-a-ton where he uses Blender and his new printer to print some model parts. He doesn't go into details, but it's worth watching.
robunos:
Okay, so I've managed to get my printer set up and try using it, with shall we say 'mixed' results . . .
After having levelled the machine (or so I thought), and then levelled the build plate, I made my first test print, the 'Rook' model included with the printer's software. The results weren't bad, for a first attempt.
There's some roughness and white deposits around the base, which I understand to be due to not washing off all of the uncured resin / not drying the piece completely before curing. Also this test print does not have supports with it, and is printed directly on to the Build Plate. This made them difficult to remove, and I did crack one while doing so, although you can't see it unless you look closely. I also discovered that the machine was not properly levelled after all.
I levelled the printer properly this time. A 'problem' I've found is that the adjustable feet have no locknuts, so there's nothing to retain the setting once you've made it . . .
I decided to add supports this time, so I used the supplied 'rook .stl' file and addded the supports and sliced it myself using the supplied Chitubox software. This was the result . . .
I made sure I washed this one completely before curing, so no roughness or white deposits this time, but the print came out wonky. I put this down to having not re-homed the Build Plate when I levelled the whole machine. So I levelled and zeroed the Build Plate once more. The other major problem was this . . .
the size was completely different to the first print. I have absolutely no idea why this should be . . .
So for my next attempt I decided to use an object I'd designed myself. After letting the printer do it's stuff, I was presented with . . . nothing, a clean build plate. Another attempt gave the same result. A third go, and now the printer is producing loud grinding noises when the Build Plate goes to the Home position to start printing. Googling informs me that this is due to the Home position not being correctly set. After two attempts at re-homing with no change I decided to give up for the day. After emptying the resin vat I find the reason for the grinding noise . . .
The 'missing' prints were in fact stuck to the FEP, and not the Build Plate ! :o
So today's questions are :-
How do I get the prints to stick to the Build Plate, and not to the FEP ?
How do I get the print to come out at the correct size ?
and finally, I've managed to lose on of the screws that secures the resin vat. :o :-[ >:D
Are replacements available, or if not, what size is the screw, so I can get a substitute ?
cheers,
Robin.
Frank3k:
Leveling the machine is important to keep the resin from sloshing out one side of the tank, but not critical.
Leveling the build plate so it's parallel to the FEP is critical. Not doing so can lead to print failures. Follow the leveling instructions carefully - the build plate bolts have to be adjusted in the sequence they recommend, or the build plate can get twisted out of level.
In your failed print, how many base layers did you use? You'll have to carefully remove the stuck on resin. Don't use a metal spatula! A silicone scraper should work and won't scratch the FEP. I've used denatured alcohol to help remove stuck on bits and some will come off by picking at them (carefully) with your fingernail (through a glove).
When all clean, check the FEP for tears, deep scratches or holes. Make sure the build plate is clean, too.
If you poured the resin back into the bottle without filtering it first, use a filter before you pour the resin in the vat again to catch any bits of cured resin.
The screws are metric; M4 0.7 x 12mm for the Mars 2 Pro. Contact Elegoo and see if they'll send or sell you a replacement. They're pretty large - how did you lose one?
3D Printing Pro has really helpful videos on printing.
Leveling the Plate for Resin 3d printing - Flint Read v Paper method!
How many bottom layers should you actually use for resin 3d printing?!?
Base layer exposure
How to clean the resin vat
robunos:
Frank3k said :- Leveling the machine is important to keep the resin from sloshing out one side of the tank, but not critical.
That's how I found out the machine was not level, I could see that the resin level was deeper at one end of the tank than the other . . .
Frank3k said :- Leveling the build plate so it's parallel to the FEP is critical. Not doing so can lead to print failures. Follow the leveling instructions carefully - the build plate bolts have to be adjusted in the sequence they recommend, or the build plate can get twisted out of level.
I've done that, and I'm satisfied that level is good, I've even used a square to make sure that the edges of the Build Plate are parallel to the sides of the printer.
Frank3k said :- In your failed print, how many base layers did you use?
I used the software default; 5 layers of 0.05mm thickness, with an exposure time of 35 seconds.
Frank3k said :- You'll have to carefully remove the stuck on resin. Don't use a metal spatula! A silicone scraper should work and won't scratch the FEP.
I'm using water washable resin, so after I emptied the tank I left it filled with water for about 30 minutes, then emptied and dried it. The stuck on prints came off with a bit of work. There are some dents in the FEP, but no tears or holes. I only have one spare, so I'd like to try and get a bit more life out of this one, if I can.
Frank3k said :- Make sure the build plate is clean, too.
I've cleaned it thoroughly with water, and now I have some IPA, i will clean it with that too. Or would cellulose (lacquer) thinners be better ?
I decided to dispose of the unused resin, as it had been hanging around while I was messing about. How long can the resin be left exposed to light before it starts to cure and is unusable for printing ?
Frank3k said :- The screws are metric; M4 0.7 x 12mm for the Mars 2 Pro. Contact Elegoo and see if they'll send or sell you a replacement. They're pretty large - how did you lose one?
When I loosened it to take the resin tank out, I overdid it, and dropped it in the resin tank. I took into the kitchen to clean it in the sink. then dried it, then put it down to dry completely while i went to fetch the Build Plate. When I returned I couldn't find It . . .
Thanks for the video links, that's my evening entertainment sorted . . .
cheers,
Robin.
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