Mustang drone hunter

[Kerick]

If you look in the rules thread you’ll see where I asked permission to join the group build using my decades old, 1/48th scale, part built, Monogram P-51 Mustang. You can see the pics there.
The idea is a wealthy Hollywood actor with time on his hands who is addicted to adrenaline packs up his fully restored Mustang to join the fight against drones and maybe get his name in the papers.
This project will at least get this model off the shelf of doom and onto the completed display. I have the decals for Ukrainian aircraft so while doing the standard OD green over neutral grey I’ll also put blue and yellow strips in place of the usual invasion strips for further ID markings.
I just painted the underside grey so we’ll see what happens next.

If I come across a PC-9 or Super Tucano they might join the fray.

[Kerick]

I scraped and sanded off the raised lines on the Mustang wings. It helps that the Mustang wings were very smooth with the only panel lines being around the gun bays and the fuel tanks. I scraped down most of the lines on the fuselage so they are not so high. I experimented with engraving some lines but that didn’t work so now that’s getting PSRed. One coat of neutral grey and it stuck out like a sore thumb. Pics when it’s worth looking at.

[apophenia]

... I experimented with engraving some lines but that didn’t work so now that’s getting PSRed. One coat of neutral grey and it stuck out like a sore thumb...

Ken: Since you have removed the raised panel lines, I must ask ... have you ever tried drawing pencil lines to simulate panels? It is a bit fussy and usually adds an extra paint step (a flat coat after decals go on). But the effect can be pleasingly subtle and makes for a more realistic depiction of scale panel lines.

[Kerick]

That’s a good idea. The Mustang wings don’t have much but the fuselage does. Do you use tape for a straight edge?

[Jeffry Fontaine]

An excellent and expedient aid/device this purpose can be had by using an old draughting tool called an eraser shield. 



Relatively cheap and available at HobbyLobby and other arts and craft supply stores. 

[Kerick]

I’ve got one of those in my toolbox from my old high school drafting classes.

[apophenia]

As Jeff said, an eraser shield is the ideal tool. Draughting rulers tend to be too stiff. But if you can find a cheap, super-flexible steel ruler, they are ideal for longer lines - like fuselage longerons or wing panels.

Way back when, I used to use Koh-I-Noor 'Rapidograph' pens (with grey ink) for emphasising control surface hinge lines. That worked well ... but I'm betting that some BtS member knows of a more modern, line-line felt pen that would suit.

[Jeffry Fontaine]

Another resource for mostly "straight" lines is the old Dymo brand Label Tape for the Dymo self-adhesive embossing label makers from the time before digital computerz and interwebz. 

Dymo Label Maker Self-Adhesive Label Tape Types

DYMO Self-Adhesive Embossing Labels White Print on Black Tape 3/8-Inch x 9.8-Foot Roll 3 Pack

TBH, I was surprised the Dymo stuff was still around and available.  That said, 3 rolls of that plastic tape will set you back a bit of cash but it was or maybe still is the go-to for rescribing straight lines by those modelers that need straight lines. 

[Kerick]

I have some of that tape too. I was always afraid it would pull off paint or putty.

Second coat of grey paint is on. Next is to mask off the green. Then search the decal stash.

Edit, The second coat of grey turned out well. Hopefully all the paint gremlins will be tired out and sleeping after messing with the Schnibblemobil!

[Silverfox]

Scribing tape is also another way to get straight lines, and it's a bit cheaper and more flexible than dymo tape. I use it when scribing panel lines on Gundam models. I've also used it for exactly the purpose of scribing replacement panel lines after sanding or removing raised ones on an old kit. DSPIAE, Madworks, Stedi, and Ammo all make it, along with other manufacturers

[apophenia]

Tape seems necessary for re-scribing straight lines and I know that some people do use tape for pencil lines. But, to me, always seemed to pose too high a risk of paint damage when rendering pencil (or pencil crayon) lines.

I never owned any decent clamps but, if you've got 'em, you can always clamp straight edges into position for pencil lines. Obviously, you can do the same with those fancy re-scribing templates (if they are thin enough gauge metal).

[Kerick]

I printed out some Ukrainian roundels last night. I estimated the size by measuring some I have in 1/72nd and calcing what it should be in 1:48th. I’m going to put them right over some regular stars and bars to make it look like a rush job. The challenge of yellow and blue invasion stripes is holding me back.

[apophenia]

... I’m going to put them right over some regular stars and bars to make it look like a rush job. The challenge of yellow and blue invasion stripes is holding me back.

If the Ukrainian roundels are going to look like a rush job, maybe the invasion stripes should appear similarly 'rustic'?

[Kerick]

... I’m going to put them right over some regular stars and bars to make it look like a rush job. The challenge of yellow and blue invasion stripes is holding me back.

If the Ukrainian roundels are going to look like a rush job, maybe the invasion stripes should appear similarly 'rustic'?

With a little white and black peaking out!

[Kerick]

I started on the yellow stripes tonight. I’m brushing on some Tamiya yellow acrylic. It’s going to take a couple coats. Tomorrow is a pretty free day so I should get some progress.

[Kerick]

I just pulled the tape off the stripes. Not bad, a little touchup required except where I misjudged the fuselage width. That will require more than a little touchup. The yellow is Tamiya flat yellow which required several coats and the blue is Apple Barrel bright blue, which required only two. Both colors definitely look the part.





These are the decals I made on power point. There are the Ukrainian ones and also for the Schnibblemobil. I tried to make drone kill markings but I'm not 100% happy with them. The rest will come from the decal scrap box.

[apophenia]

... Both colors definitely look the part...

Indeed they do! So any 'own goals' will definitely be the fault of anti-drone gunners, not the paint crew 

[Kerick]

I found two thirds of a 1/48 Micro Scale P-51B sheet. Everything I need except it has that red and yellow spinner I would have to paint. More difficult colors. I still need to paint the OD green topside yet. I’m afraid this build is not going to make the cutoff. But at least it’s much farther down the road than it was before. I’ve had some grey paint peel off the silver that was the first coat. Not really a big problem as it made it look chipped. Now I have masking all over ready for the OD and I hope it doesn’t pull off big chunks. I’ve touched up the yellow so that looks pretty good. OD tomorrow, then gloss acrylic, then decals, then flat acrylic. No way there will be enough drying time in between all that. I’ll have it done in another week or two. No contest winner but at least it will be done. If I keep finishing things I’ll need more cabinet space.
Any ideas for really light, thin wall tubing I can use to simulate pipe for the load on the Schnibblemobil? If I get really lucky I might have that done for the nationals. Just for display at the Tiger Meet tables.

[Kerick]

Gloss coat is on and ready for decals. The colors are holding up well so far. Some of the paint is not sticking well to the old silver paint from 35 years ago. Just from handling it and masking tape have pulled paint off leaving nice chipped areas. I’ve even chipped off more areas to give it a well used look. I’ll attempt decals soon then maybe attempt a reasonable backstory.