1/35 Rye Field Models T-55A

[Frank3k]

Over at What-If, there's an excellent, ongoing build by The Chaos' of the Tamiya T-55A kit. 

Inspired by his build, I decided to move forward on a project I've wanted to do for a while: a T-55 in some forgotten African bush war.

The figure i was working on here is just practice for the eventual figures on this tank.

I have several T-55 and T-55 kits (including the Tamiya). I thought about using the Tamiya kit (which compares favorably with modern T-55 kits) but the PE set is on order. I asked my cat, Felix (who's been good at picking models to build)  if he could pick one for me, but the shelf with the T-55s was too high for him - he wasn't happy being held in a "Lion King" pose,



 so he didn't pick one.  I eventually asked my wife; I was hoping she would pick the Takom or Tamiya but she picked the Rye Field Models T-55A Mod. 1981. Fair enough; I'd just gotten the kit so might as well start it.

This is a fun (and for the most part) trouble-free build. Clear instructions, beautiful molding and the parts are arranged in numerical order on the sprues (I hate it when "part 5" is next to "part 72" and "part 6" is next to "part 48"). The kit has workable tracks and surprisingly, I got almost all of the links to be fully workable - only one got stuck to the next track link and that was an easy fix. There are plenty of pins and tracks left over as well.

Here's where I was earlier today. Tracks are on just to check the tension. 91 links (as shown in the instructions) works well:



Most of the work today was gluing the deck in place and adding all the small bits. The lower hull comes in 4 parts (bottom, sides and rear) and I snapped the deck into place until everything was set. This helped when I eventually glued the deck in - ot just clicked into position. There are still some gaps, but some are there on the real tank and others will be hidden by the turret.





The wheels have prominent treads/mold lines that have to be sanded back quite a bit before they look realistic; I'll do that before I paint the model.

[Kerick]

Poor Felix! Being abused like that!

Looks like your wife filled in for Felix perfectly. That kit looks pretty sweet.

[Frank3k]

Felix demands to go into the model closet, daily. He sits by the door and gives a particular meow. I have to pick him up and let him sniff the model boxes, and he purrs the whole time.

[Mig Eater]

Did you have to hold your wife up to help her pick too

Lots of interesting painting & weathering options for an African T-55, looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.

[Old Wombat]

Those lines across the road wheels are, from memory, casting seams from the moulds for the solid rubber tyres.

They'd only be there for a short while, when new, before they were worn off but you can, more often than not, see them on the sides of the tyres.

[Kerick]

Felix demands to go into the model closet, daily. He sits by the door and gives a particular meow. I have to pick him up and let him sniff the model boxes, and he purrs the whole time.

I think it’s the picking up part that Felix is demanding!

[Frank3k]

It doesn't feel like I've been making much progress on this model, but I have; yesterday I removed the mold marks on the road wheel contact surfaces but left the mold marks on the sidewalls. I also forgot to add the driver's periscopes and there was no way I would be able to cram them into place from the inside (I tried). So I cut the prisms off and glued them in under the covers. Problem solved.

I've been going page by page, slowly building up the main deck; no major issues except for the microscopic (about 1mm in diameter) covers/plugs on the fuel tanks. Three are required, four provided, I lost two. Luckily, I have several of the Meng Nuts and Bolts set and one of the nuts and washers was a reasonable facsimile.





The only tricky part so far has been the installation of the fuel tanks, braces and fuel lines; examine the instructions and dry fit to get an idea on how they go. The fuel lines are a work of beauty and they fit perfectly - the diagram on the instruction sheet is key.

One issue I've had in this build (since it is a Russian tank) is trying to figure out if the gaps or seams are something I have to putty or sand down or if they're a "feature" of the real tank. So far, about 80% have been a feature!

note that the front fenders haven't been attached; I'm trying to replicate one (or both) with copper or aluminum foil that I can crumple to replicate damage.

[Buzzbomb]

The fuel lines are a work of beauty and they fit perfectly - the diagram on the instruction sheet is key.

Having been down the wire scratchbuild path... indeed these look wonderful

[Old Wombat]

note that the front fenders haven't been attached; I'm trying to replicate one (or both) with copper or aluminum foil that I can crumple to replicate damage.

I hope that works out!

Build is cruising along nicely!

[Frank3k]

This model can be broken down into three assemblies that take roughly the same amount of time to make: tracks, hull and turret. The tracks are a tedious but simple assembly. The hull is a mix of large and medium sized parts, with only a few PE sections and not too many small parts. The turret has a few large parts but many, many intricate sub-assemblies and the most PE in the build; the DShK alone has five!

Anyway, I'm almost done with construction. No major issues, just plugging away at the tiny bits:



I made the "executive decision" to remove some equipment, like the snorkel tube, based on images of African T-55s. Instead, I made attachment points for the tube out of styrene (the kit's didn't match the pictures). I also skipped the vinyl bag and its PE straps that went on the rear of the turret. The two materials are a pain to work with individually and together they're just too much. I'll probably only use one of the fuel tanks at the rear as well.

I've been trying to simulate the tank fenders with copper foil with mediocre results; I may just leave one off.

Coming up is painting. I'll use a dark Russian green for the base color and cover it with a tan or sand color (or similar) to match the African tanks I've found online.

[Old Wombat]

Really nice, crisp detail on that kit, Frank, & it's still moving ahead nicely!

[Dr. YoKai]

 Looks pretty neat so far. I think Would go nuts just thinking about what to attach and what not to attach before painting...

[Frank3k]

Yeah, that is a problem, especially with the optics. I left off a few pieces. The good thing about the T-55s used in Africa is that you can use almost any mark, with any color and with almost any extra hardware.

I'm going to try an experiment with the painting - I'll use Badger Stynylrez green primer (maybe with a touch of black primer) and just a little bit of Acetone mixed in with the airbrush thinner. The Badger primer does a great job at sticking to the plastic, but I want to give it extra teeth, since I want to overcoat it with a lighter color and wear it down to the primer.

I'm not crazy enough to try it on the tank - I'll find a sacrificial piece first.

Speaking of nuts - here's a recent video of the Russian The 1430th Regiment and their newly issued T-55As (reportedly) recently deployed to Ukraine.

[Claymore]

Lookin’ good.  Will be hugely interested to see how the paint job turns out. 

[Buzzbomb]

So pretty much out of the box.... impressive.

[Frank3k]

I tried the Badger Stynylrez green primer with a touch of Acetone; it didn't hurt the plastic at all (I used a sprue and some spare parts from the kit). In fact, the acetone may have interfered with the paint's adhesion - I could easily scratch it off. Oh well.

I also made a copper (with a sticky side) and aluminum foil fender, which I planned to bang up:



I may just go with a missing fender on that side.

[Story]

[Old Wombat]

Speaking of nuts - here's a recent video of the Russian The 1430th Regiment and their newly issued T-55As (reportedly) recently deployed to Ukraine.

The crews don't look very happy, do they. With good reason!

I'm aware that the T-55s have been sent to the Ukraine to be used as additional artillery support in the indirect fire role but you know some commander's going to find himself short of armoured vehicles & send the poor buggers in against Leo 2s & Chally 2s, if they're lucky against Leo 1s, but you know for sure ...
                                                             ... It won't be pretty!

Frank, this Ugandan T-55 that Story posted has flat-plate front track guards, the originals were probably battered beyond repair or torn off & replaced with sheet metal at some stage.

You could easily do the same!

[Frank3k]

Thanks, Story for the pictures.

Guy - That Ugandan T-55A looks way too clean for a regularly used vehicle. Good idea about the flat fenders/track guards. I'll try making one.

When less than 3 drones can take out a T-90 in Ukraine, those T-55s won't stand a chance and are probably scrap now.

This has been my build reference (even though it's a T-55AM and not a T-55A):



This one as well (proper T-55A):



One good thing about making an African tank - the colors can be whatever I want them to be.

[Story]

Thanks, Story for the pictures.
 
One good thing about making an African tank - the colors can be whatever I want them to be.

In reverse order, "if you can figure out what colors they are exactly" and *you're welcome.

Found this while looking https://www.exter-company.com/en/products/afrikanische-t55-panzerbesatzung

You would not be wrong to use that entire baggie of dunnage I offered you, then covered the dunnage with a full strength platoon of tank-riders (human and otherwise) until it looked like an Indian passenger bus.

[Kerick]

She looks like my neighbor!

[apophenia]

... then covered the dunnage with a full strength platoon of tank-riders (human and otherwise) until it looked like an Indian passenger bus...

But is there an available 1/35 Combat Goat figure?

Frank: On fenders, I must cast my vote for at least one of your copper/aluminum foil creations. T'other fender could be missing or that sheet metal replacement 

[Story]

But is there an available 1/35 Combat Goat figure?

Yup.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802119089466.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt


The humping bunnies in this set could be roadside observers.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805239661945.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=19108282527&albag=&trgt=&crea=en3256805239661945&netw=x&device=c&albpg=&albpd=en3256805239661945&gclid=CjwKCAjwu4WoBhBkEiwAojNdXg-ix-pD0R1Pbunp2kZiEO6r9mUnJNywoLdyRsb0VFUm5Fr9ukw6oBoCwUkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=e38512f6a5a54649896a737b077e4d23-1694631382456-09052-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=e38512f6a5a54649896a737b077e4d23-1694631382456-09052-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=44a299080cb344cc87d803d52a927908&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Frank: On fenders, I must cast my vote for at least one of your copper/aluminum foil creations. T'other fender could be missing or that sheet metal replacement 

Agreed.

[Frank3k]

First coat of paint (AK Interactive 3rd gen light sand and middlestone, 2:1) over Tamiya NATO black and green.

Missed a few spots. I'll get them tomorrow:



It's not quite as green as this picture shows:



Tracks are painted in Vallejo steel - still flexible.

Next, finish painting the overall color, then paint the details, do some chipping, then more weathering.

[Old Wombat]