3D Printing Tips and Techniques

[Frank3k]

Send them to you or Jeff or anyone who wants them. I keep some of the supports  to use as a "pull tab" when cleaning the FEP (the clear film at the bottom of the tank) - I hold one down near a corner of the tank, run the "tank clean" function (which lights up the whole screen for a few seconds).I then take the partially exposed sheet outside to fully cure - although this is extremely exothermic in direct sunlight.

I usually print many copies if the parts are small enough to fit multiples on the build plate. They get cured and go into the spares box.

The rest (all cured) goes into the recycling bin.

[Frank3k]

HackSpace has a pretty good free PDF book on 3D design and printing FreeCAD for Makers They're using FreeCAD a Free 3D CAD program - its a parametric design CAD program, but it will work with meshes and can output STL files. It's also (as it says on the tin) free.

[GTX_Admin]

Another one with 3D STL files for purchase:  https://www.gambody.com

[ChalkLine]

After the printing is finished is there anything the print has to be protected from? I'm going to have the printer in a cupboard and then be removing it from there to wash and cure it.
Also inside the printing cabinet all I can think is there has to be room to remove the printer lid and let it air, what else goes in there apart from the wash station (when I get it)

[Frank3k]

If it's a resin printer, you'll need PPE (masks, goggles, as a minimum) and good ventilation to the outside when printing or handling resin. Plus count on getting resin spills, so you'll need isopropyl, paper towels, a scraper and a UV flashlight. If you leave resin in the printer, you shouldn't move it because the resin will spill and get into the works.

If it's an FDM printer, ventilation is good (especially if printing ABS) but once the printing is done and everything has cooled off, you can store it anywhere.

[ChalkLine]

Cool, so no other sort of large elements beyond the washer/curer?
I'm just sorting out the cabinet now and knowing me I'll get one too small.

[Frank3k]

I would get a grow tent for at least the printer and a forced air extractor. This would be ideal but any inline fan would work. Resin allergy can be pretty severe and spilled resin is no fun to clean up.

Depending on how cold it gets in your printing area, you may need a heater - either around the resin tank, inside the case or in the room. Resin prints best at around 80F/27C and prints will start to fail at around 70F/21C or below.

[Buzzbomb]

Speaking of enclosures... very topical as I just got one, as the shed I work in often has the door open, which can lead to temperature variations on the 3D printer.

So, I have just bought one of these 3D Enclosures from Jaycar for just on $70 AUD. Interestingly the one I received had Creality printed on it.. It is working a treat 
https://www.jaycar.com.au/3d-printer-enclosure-60-x-48-x-72-cm/p/TL4615
so it actually looks like this

[Frank3k]

Wow! Looks just like mine! I usually close and vent it for ABS, leave it open for PLA.

[ChalkLine]

What do you think of this cupboard?
It's 75% the cost of a grow tent. I'm not adverse to cutting holes in it for ducting.

https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/baggebo-cabinet-with-door-white-70483882/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_content=free_google_shopping_clicks_Storeandorganisefurniture

[Buzzbomb]

What do you think of this cupboard?
It's 75% the cost of a grow tent. I'm not adverse to cutting holes in it for ducting.

Providing it has enough depth/height for your printer it will be ok in my opinion.
My entire workshop is Kaboodle cupboards from Bunnings and in the previous installation I had my previous FDM UP! 3D printer in a cupboard as you propose, with appropriate holes to get cables in. The current Elegoo printer is too tall for this solution though.

[Frank3k]

You want some room to maneuver inside the enclosure (place and remove the lid easily, remove the build plate, etc.) so add space all around the printer; probably a hands with (or more) on the sides and about the lid size on top (or more). You don't want to tilt the vat when it has resin in it.

It might be worth buying a screen protector for the Mars as well as some spare nFEP/PFA film for the vat; your future self will thank you.

[ChalkLine]

Now, I have a gazillion .stl files.

What would be the best recommendation for bringing them into single files in batches, printing on a common base/supports? Just which program to learn is really what I'm after I guess.

For instance, a lot of small diorama objects ranging from cups to cranes.

[Frank3k]

For resin printers, can put as many objects as you want on the build plate in your slicer. You can use the free version of Chitubox (should have come with your printer) it can be downloaded. There's also a limited version of Lychee slicer

In most cases, you'll need software to find and fix issues with the sliced file before you print, but for just starting out, slice and print out one or two objects to get a feel for the process.

J3D's resin printing guide is excellent

It's critical to check and clean the build plate after any failures and in particular, clean the FEP (plastic film at the bottom of the tank after any print failure. You can either filter the resin in the tank (pour it back into the bottle through a fine wire mesh colander or fine sieve) and check the FEP, or use the tank clean function.

A screen protector would be a good investment, too - if you puncture the FEP, you don't want resin to leak into the printer.

[robunos]

For resin printers, can put as many objects as you want on the build plate in your slicer. You can use the free version of Chitubox (should have come with your printer) it can be downloaded.

A word of caution about updating Chtubox. Depending on the age of your printer, I understand you didn't buy it new, in order to use the latest versions of Chitubox, you may have to upgrade the firmware in your printer.
Now the manufacturers say this is a simple process, however, if it goes wrong, your printer's bricked. I didn't do mine, I switched to Lychee slicer instead . . .


cheers,
Robin.

[Frank3k]

Yeah - check and make sure your printer has the latest firmware by going to the manufacturer's site. Some older printers had two updates - one for the system and one for the display - so make sure you understand and follow the update instructions.

Another slicer that I use (especially with my FDM printer) is PrusaSlicer. It's free. You will eventually want to analyze and fix your slicer output and for that, you can't beat UVTools. The program can add many resin printer profiles to PrusaSlicer.

Lychee is a great slicer but you only have the option of the free (but limited) version or a subscription version. Subscriptions for software is a bridge too far for me.

[robunos]

Lychee is a great slicer but you only have the option of the free (but limited) version or a subscription version. Subscriptions for software is a bridge too far for me.

Yeah, I only use the free version. I did try the paid version for a time, but to be honest, I didn't find the extra features useful, on the whole.


cheers,
Robin.

[ChalkLine]

Any tips for making supports?
I have read a good page that seems to cover it well
https://phrozen3d.com/blogs/tutorials/why-you-need-to-set-supports-in-3d-printing

It's just occurred to me that I'm probably overthinking this

[Frank3k]

Most of the time, you'll need supports. They're generated on command by the slicing software, although you can add them manually.

The only "art" is rotating the object for the best angle for printing and the type of supports (heavy, medium or light). That article (and the J3D one I linked) are good.

Details on the surface should face away from the build plate.

Here's a handy calculator for resin printing angles. This is to get the best flat surfaces without aliasing. For most printers and printing at 50u layers, it's going to be around 45 degrees.

[ChalkLine]

So I've been going through the Chitubox tutorials but I'm yet to find anything referring to 'undersized models' which is a constant warning I get.

Is this saying the slices are set too large for the object? If so, should I make a 'thin slice setting' and make all the undersized objects as a batch in that setting?

[Frank3k]

I would ignore that warning. If the object is well supported and not below the resolution of the printer, it shouldn't care.

If you've done an exposure test for 50 microns, don't change the Z resolution until you've make another exposure test. You can try printing at a higher Z resolution, but it will take much longer and the exposures will be different. In general, you won't gain much by going smaller than 30 microns (even though most printers can do 10u in Z).

[ChalkLine]

Thanks for the hand-holding on this one good sir, I will do so

Collecting free .stl files is pretty addictive. I'm going to need a new drive at this rate.

I have to admit that I'm impressed by Chitubox, it has a lot more functionality than I thought it would have. Especially such functions as 'hollow' and 'hole'.

[Frank3k]

I rarely hollow objects. Hollow objects can be a pain because of the suction while printing. After printing, washing and curing, you would have to make sure there’s no resin inside the object AND cure the interior. Not worth it for small objects

[ChalkLine]

I rarely hollow objects. Hollow objects can be a pain because of the suction while printing. After printing, washing and curing, you would have to make sure there’s no resin inside the object AND cure the interior. Not worth it for small objects

I have some turrets I'd like to give it a try with. I'll make huge holes at the turret ring

[Frank3k]

For something like a turret, give it a 1-2mm wall thickness and it will be hollow. That's wall thickness is enough to cure any resin left inside (especially if he turret ring is open). Just oriented so that there are no large cross sections flat against the FEP, since that can cause suction and will deform the print or eve cause it to fail.