Please review this model of a Textron One Metre Turret

[ChalkLine]

I know nothing about 3D printing.

What's the thoughts on this 3D model of a Textron 1m Turret? Would this be any good for a 1/35 kit? I have a mate with a flash 3D printer.

It looks a bit 'squat' to me

https://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/cadillac-cage-textron-3d-max/651650

[robunos]

Okay. While I can't comment on the accuracy, or otherwise, of this model, what I can say is that the file as offered is NOT suitable for 3-D printing as it stands. It MAY be possible to convert it to a suitable format, but it's not something that I know enough about to say for certain.
See the below from your link :-






3D printing: The majority of our models are intended for use in visualisation projects and are not created with 3D printing in mind.
A conversion for printable content may not be possible.





cheers,
Robin.

[ChalkLine]

Ahh, bugger.
Looks like I'm going to have to scale off the drawing then and scratch-build it. That can go on the 'one day' list.
Thanks for the info

[robunos]

No worries . . . a tip. When searching for files to 3-D print, include the term 'stl' or '.stl' in your search. 'stl' is the file format required for 3-D printing. 'stl' means STereoLithography . . .


cheers,
Robin.

[ChalkLine]

Sweet. This means .obj files are no good? The guide I was using said they were printing files as well

[robunos]

I believe so, but I've never used them, I prefer to stick with .stl's . . .


cheers,
Robin.

[Frank3k]

Probably what that means is that the object isn't "water tight" (not all polygons are closed) wall thickness isn't defined (you need a wall thickness to print as a physical object) among other potential issues.

Converting from an .obj to an .stl file is straightforward, but best done in  a 3D program like Blender or Rhino 3D - something you would have to use anyway to turn that file into a printable object.

It would probably be easier to use the line drawings as a source for the 3D object.

[Jeffry Fontaine]

Looking at the images you provided, the turret appears to be the same UGWS that is used on several armoured vehicles to include the LVTP-7/AAAV-7 of the Marines, the M1117 Guardian 4X4, and a few others that have escaped my memory.  The only real difference I can see between the turret in the images and the actual UGWS turret is an armoured cover over the 40mm ammunition feed chute to the Mk19 40mm GLMG.  Other than that small difference you should be able to find an old Verlinden resin UGMW or the same turret in the Trumpeter M1117 Guardian, or the Tamiya and HobbyBoss AAAV-7/LVTP-7 kits. 

[GTX_Admin]

Looking at the images you provided, the turret appears to be the same UGWS that is used on several armoured vehicles to include the LVTP-7/AAAV-7 of the Marines, the M1117 Guardian 4X4,

Indeed:

[ChalkLine]

A friend has offered me a Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and some resin for $150, will this do 1/35 kits such as an AFV with a decent resolution?

Also this one says it's for 3D printing but I can't tell if it is as it's an .obj file and there doesn't seem to be any data. A help page on .obj files said to use a slice program like Cura but I'm not sure if it's just selling the program

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/gkn-simba

[robunos]

A friend has offered me a Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and some resin for $150, will this do 1/35 kits such as an AFV with a decent resolution?

Also this one says it's for 3D printing but I can't tell if it is as it's an .obj file and there doesn't seem to be any data. A help page on .obj files said to use a slice program like Cura but I'm not sure if it's just selling the program

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/gkn-simba

If that's 150 Aussie dollars, then I think that's a fair price, I have one of those myself. However, you won't be able to print a 1/35 AFV in one piece with it, as the print volume is not large enough. Mind you, you will have to break the model down into pieces (just like an injection moulded kit) anyway, in order to print it with a resin printer.
Regarding the file you mention, it is a .obj file, and thus can be 3D printed, but without knowing the scale at which the file was created, I can't say as to whether the file can be scaled to the scale you want, without the detail becoming too coarse. Most AFV files tend to be either 28mm / 1/56, or 1/100 scale for use with tabletop wargames, and obviously there's alimit to how much they can be enlarged.
Regarding a Slicer, you should get one provided with the printer, in this case it should be ChituBox. If you don't, there are others available. I use Lychee Slicer, which is a free, cloud based one (you can pay to get more features). These will give you enough functions to get a successful print.
However, please understand that it's not just a matter of loading a .obj or .stl into the printer, pressing 'GO' and coming back an hour or so later to a perfect print. There's quite a steep learning curve to climb, new skills to master, etc., but then, that's where the fun lies . . .


cheers,
Robin.

[Frank3k]

$150 for a Mars 2 and resin is a fair price in almost any currency.

BUT...

It's not just the printer and resin, though - you have to invest in PPE - nitrile gloves and eye protection, at a minimum. Don't skimp on these - the liquid resin isn't particularly toxic, but it can cause severe eye damage if you get even a small amount of uncured resin in your eye. Exposure to uncured resin (either inhaled or especially via skin contact) will cause an allergic sensitivity.

You'll also need a very large supply of paper towels. Then set aside an area where you can contain and clean up resin spills (definitely nowhere near a carpet) and have a nearby window to vent the fumes out.... but that also doesn't allow direct sunlight in. A grow tent with an exhaust fan and vent going to the window is ideal.

Here's my setup (with an FDM printer and my airbrush booth):



You'll need a to wash and cure the prints after they come out of the printer. You'll need isopropyl or denatured (methylated spirits) alcohol for washing the prints and some way of curing them. Some people use sunlight or build their own UV curing box, but in the long run, the cheapest and easiest solution is to buy a wash and cure station, which does both. There are "water washable" resins, but neither type can be flushed down the drain. Eventually the alcohol or water solution used to wash the parts will become saturated in resin. The best way to dispose it is to leave it out in the sun until the water or alcohol evaporates and the dried, cured resin can be dumped as trash.

Having the above sorted out, how good are you with a 3D CAD program like Blender, Rhino3D or Fusion 360? If you're using someone else's design, you'll have to make it printable and that can often take as long as designing the object from scratch.

[ChalkLine]

I have a CAD ticket but I got it w-a-a-a-a-y back in the 1990s, I think it was AutoCAD release 14! :)

From what I gather buying a model off the net is pretty risky, you really are looking at a tiny image and making a lot of guesses and in my case assumptions.  Still, I'm kind of looking forward to using the printer. As to PPE, I'm pretty careful about that so I'll invest in good kit from the start. I just have to remember to store masks in ziplok bags when I move, my last respirator was full of dust and gunk when it came out of the container.

I'd like to give a big thanks to everyone, I've learned more in one thread than I have off half a dozen youtubes

[Frank3k]

Blender is free. It used to have a nearly vertical learning curve, now it's just steep. Plenty of good learning videos out there. Fusion 360 is "free". FreeCAD is, well, free. It's probably closer to the AutoCAD you're used to.

You can go to Printables or Thingiverse for free STL files - no guarantee that they'll be printable, but certainly more than using an .obj files, which probably won't. Printables is a more reliable site.

The problem with many 3D files out there is the lack of wall thickness (they're using infinitely thin surfaces) and may not be a fully watertight shape. You can fix both problems in software, but not always.

[Gingie]

The Trumpeter M1117 Guardian can be had for under $20. If you aren't set on using a Canadian 1m turret for your AVGP, use that. But if you are willing to do that - then might as well stick with the Trumpeter kit one.

[ChalkLine]

Thanks, I haven't got an M117 as yet and that looks like a nice kit

[ChalkLine]

As to other cupolas I found a free T50 cupola .stl but the mantlet is fixed. I've downloaded a CAD program and I'll cut out the mantlet and have it as second part once I get my head around the program, it doesn't look as hard as AutoCAD just different. I'm sure I'll make a dog's breakfast of it to start with. It does come with either the .30 Browning or the MAG 58 barrels which are separate and that is nice.