So far she's looking excellent!
Weathering is a matter of layers; small amounts, lots of layers. I find a base coat of lacquer clear gloss under acrylics works best.
Chipping & scratching seems to work best if you focus on each area individually, remembering not to go overboard on the chips & scratches, keep it fairly light. I, personally, like Tamiya XF-56 Metallic Grey & XF-84 Dark Iron for my chipping, which should be protected by a layer of lacquer clear before moving on.
For rust, which I mostly streak from the chipping, I have a range of AK Interactive rust colours. I start with AK706 Light Rust, then usually go AK708 Dark Rust (sometimes AK709 Old Rust), followed by AK707 Medium Rust. There is AK710 Shadow Rust but I use that for panel lines.
For dust I airbrush a fine-mist of
very* thin Tamiya XF-57 Buff overall, then use a fine brush moistened in Tamiya X-20A Acrylic Thinner to streak the mist coat under bolts, & fittings. Then a less uniform coat of
very thin XF-52 Flat Earth overall, which is again streaked under the bolts & fittings. Repeat with either XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan or XF-55 Deck Tan.
The order is variable (except the chipping, which should always come first) & you may wish to alternate a layer of rust followed by a layer of dust.
The best tip I ever got was "KEEP IT LIGHT!" Heavy-handedness is the bane of good weathering.
Anyway, hope that helps & I'm not preaching to the converted.
* - when I say "
very thin" I mean barely enough to colour the thinning medium (don't use water, methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol are your friends here) & layer it until you get a decent density, remembering to build it up towards the rear of the tank, especially the very rear. Oh, yeah! And don't do the layers too evenly, swirl your airbrush around as randomly as possible)
(Note: I've stated Tamiya colours because they're the ones I have best access to & quite like using, you can use whatever paint you like. I also have Mig, Vallejo, Life Color & Humbrol (enamels) in the paint stash.)