Author Topic: "Christy" Stuart (Read 17451 times)

Frank3k · « **on:** June 30, 2012, 06:16:48 AM »

There may be many Christy Stuarts in the world, but this one isn't one of them. It's a M3 Stuart tank with a Christie suspension.

I had parts from an old Tamiya M3 Stuart and a Zvezda BT-5 tank rattling around, so I thought I'd bring them together. The Stuart was missing some of its more important parts, so I bought a "new" re-release.

ObParts picture:

I've moved quickly (for me) on this. The suspension arms and spring tubes are from a partial Tamiya FAMO that I had in the parts box:

The figures will be part of the crew. The toothed drive wheel is from the alternate track of a Trumpeter E-10 model (and so is the track.) I may replace the rubber track with the individual link version. I was very tempted to make a working suspension, but I didn't have enough springs.

This is too late for the Falklands GB, so I may move it to another island, further North and East.

GTX_Admin · « **Reply #1 on:** June 30, 2012, 06:44:07 AM »

Cool!!!

arc3371 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 30, 2012, 07:53:21 AM »

Very interesting idea

Jacques Deguerre · « **Reply #3 on:** June 30, 2012, 10:07:02 AM »

Frank, that's a great idea. I'll be interested to see how this turns out.

raafif · « **Reply #4 on:** June 30, 2012, 12:48:11 PM »

if you're going for a Christie suspension it'll have to be a Wheel & Track tank

Feldmarschall Zod · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2012, 05:08:37 AM »

Cool variant.

Jeremak · « **Reply #6 on:** July 01, 2012, 05:29:18 AM »

I want it in World of Tanks!

Look interesting. Any painting thoughts? Maybe unusual US colours, or republican China?

GTX_Admin · « **Reply #7 on:** July 01, 2012, 05:39:40 AM »

American counterpart to the Soviet BT series of tanks...

Frank3k · « **Reply #8 on:** July 01, 2012, 06:43:27 AM »

Thanks guys! I put the original drive wheel back because the track was making contact with the fender when I pressed down on the top. I also snipped off the two rear return rollers, because they were getting in the way of the track.
I've started on one of the figures as well.
I may have to use individual track links, because I just can't get this Trumpeter track to lay down flat. I've tried all the tricks to get the spring out of vinyl tracks - stretching them, warming them with a hair dryer then stretching them... no use.

Jeremak - It'll end up British, probably with a green (or gray-green) and tan camo pattern, similar (in more ways than one) to the Tetrach.

Frank3k · « **Reply #9 on:** July 01, 2012, 09:57:15 AM »

I surgically removed the rear section of the BT-5's turret and transplanted it onto the M3's turret. I did a better job of matching the curve of the M3 turret on the underside of the bustle, so it's on upside down in these pictures. May stay this way, may not.
The "2 pounder" gun is also from the BT-5. I'll modify the barrel to make it look more like a 40mm 2 pounder.

As soon as I'm happy with the bustle, I'll transfer it to the real turret (the new kit's turret) which has some mods of its own.

And Leftenant "Lefty" - his right hand isn't attached. The head is from a New World Miniatures resin set. They've gone out of business, so Sprue Bros has a good deal on their resin figures:

Brian da Basher · « **Reply #10 on:** July 01, 2012, 07:17:39 PM »

Wow that's looking good Frank! I really like how you modified the turret and those huge wheels are a great addition!

Brian da Basher

Jeffry Fontaine · « **Reply #11 on:** July 02, 2012, 01:57:40 AM »

Adding the extension to the turret is an excellent decision. Always wondered why the Stuart were never blessed with such things in real life. The change over to the Christie style road wheels and suspension certainly makes for a different looking Stuart.

Frank3k · « **Reply #12 on:** July 02, 2012, 10:13:44 AM »

Here's the "production" version, with most of the Stuart parts from the new kit:

I blanked off the sponson MGs, like on the real thing:

The turret does look a lot nicer (and roomier) than the stock Stuart turret:

The white line is 1/4 round plastic stock.
The gun is now a 2 pounder / 40mm.

I have an idea on how to deal with the shot trap that's formed between the bustle and the rear deck...

The suspension without the wheels makes it look like a walker! (And not an M41 Walker.)
The screen over the engine intake (barely visible under the bustle) is from a PE set I etched years ago. It was just a generic screen pattern that has finally been put to use.

Rear end:

The brass handles on the engine compartment door are made from an old, crappy ship railing PE set. This is the 4th pair I've made, and either lost or knocked off. The frilly white line just above the handles is tule that I'm using as another intake screen to cover the gaping hole in the kit.

Frank3k · « **Reply #13 on:** July 09, 2012, 08:06:12 AM »

Primer and first pass at the camo:

The chains hanging from the bustle are from a PE set that I made several years ago. they're supposed to be 1/350 ship chain, but they'll do here.

I extended the side fenders out by a few mm to fully cover the tracks. I added some PE straps to hold the fender in place.

I still have to correct the yellow camo, add the missing bits and figure out what to do about the track. I'm not looking forward to building the tracks out of individual links, but this vinyl track just isn't co-operating.

finsrin · « **Reply #14 on:** July 09, 2012, 08:51:21 AM »

Great builds. Much like what you done here. :)
For me, light armor has its own cool

Dr. YoKai · « **Reply #15 on:** July 09, 2012, 10:31:21 PM »

Neato! Looks like someting that would be right at home in the Gran Chaco war, or fighting Japanese
paratroopers in Cuba...

Frank3k · « **Reply #16 on:** July 10, 2012, 08:00:13 AM »

Thanks guys.

I experimented with a pressure sensitive adhesive that I got from Micromark. The stuff is just shy of evil - it looks like a PVA glue and dries quickly. Once dry, parts painted with it will stick firmly to each other or to a surface and can even be repositioned. The evil part happens if any of the glue ends up on your work surface or your hands. Suddenly, you become a magnet! Parts, dirt, cat hair - they all end up sticking to whatever tiny spot of glue ended up on you. It dries clear, so it's hard to see, too.

I used the glue on about 76 track links last night (enough to go one side) and I'm letting them dry thoroughly. The glue is flexible when dry, so it may give the tracks a natural hang.... or it may be a complete disaster.

Craig, this tank isn't going to Cuba, but you're giving me ideas!

Frank3k · « **Reply #17 on:** July 10, 2012, 10:37:44 AM »

Here's the Micromark PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive): http://www.micromark.com/liquid-psa-4-oz-applicator-bottle,9713.html

The track draped over the bottle is delicate, but strong enough to fall off the table and not break apart. It curves easily on the sprocket drive as well. I hope that the chemicals in Testors Metalizer paint don't also happen to be the PSA's magic solvent. So far, only acetone seems to dissolve it quickly.

finsrin · « **Reply #18 on:** July 10, 2012, 10:54:21 AM »

Oddly enough does seem fitting for "fighting Japanese paratroopers in Cuba..."

Frank3k · « **Reply #19 on:** July 23, 2012, 08:16:46 AM »

Progress:
The tracks (which may be on backwards, but they look OK to me) are on as a test. They drape nicely, but they are delicate in a couple of spots. The grenade launchers are copies from a 1/35 Tetrarch paper model, only in plastic.

The .30 cal on the turret is from the Academy US machine gun set. It's very nicely detailed for plastic. I even added a small section of ammo belt. The .50 cal in the turret and on the glacis are spare barrels from the same Academy set.

The periscope on the commander's hatch is modified from a Tamiya T-34 periscope.

The external fuel tank is from the same Italeri BT-5 that donated the wheels and bustle.

The weathering on the tracks is from Doc O'Brien's Weathering Powders. It's the first time I've used them; I used a wet brush, dipped it in the powder and brushed it on the tracks. I need to re-apply it in some areas, but overall, they seem to work well. They can also be applied dry.

Still need to add some details: headlight & grenade launcher wires, radio antenna, periscope section inside the hatch, secure and cap the wheels then it's on to decals and weathering.

GTX_Admin · « **Reply #20 on:** July 23, 2012, 02:19:42 PM »

Looking good.

Buzzbomb · « **Reply #21 on:** July 23, 2012, 04:50:31 PM »

That turned out very nice.

To my eye.. short a road wheel for a nice even weight spread but a great job.

Like the tip on the glue as well

James · « **Reply #22 on:** July 23, 2012, 06:18:46 PM »

That sure does look fantastic.

tc2324 · « **Reply #23 on:** July 23, 2012, 10:34:39 PM »

That is a great looking tank. :)

I wonder what the top speed would have been?

Frank3k · « **Reply #24 on:** July 24, 2012, 02:05:49 AM »

Thanks for the comments.
Brian, I tried, but couldn't fit another wheel (and associated springs) and have it clear the sprocket or rear wheel. I figure that the 12 wheels (each is a pair of wheels) and the extra wide track would reduce some of the ground pressure.

If you use the PSA to glue the tracks, do it AFTER painting them; the metalizer did soften some of the joints. Adjusting the track length was pretty easy - just tear off the excess links, then squeeze the track ends together. Done.

I haven't thought about the maximum speed; probably about the same as the stock tank; the extra bits add some weight.

Frank


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Author Topic: "Christy" Stuart (Read 17451 times)

James