3D modelling around

[ChalkLine]

Getting used to this nifty object modelling, it's easier than CAD and fun.

One of the things I've been doing for practice is looking for free stuff on 3DCults that has decent parts I can chop out and combine with other things of the same type, here's a .50 cal M2HB soft mount made by getting two bits and smooshing them together. It's a solid object with no voids so it should print okay (if I ever get a place to set that printer up). The original .50 was a horrible looking thing with the ammo can mounted back near the grips for some reason.

This soft mount looks familiar but I can't place it. It's like but not like the one on the M1A1 Abrams. If anyone wants the .stl file I can zip it and send it to them.

[Jeffry Fontaine]

Interesting render.  I hope the proportions are better on the printed model since the barrel on the M2 HB Browning looks a bit too long in relation to the receiver group.  As an alternative, would it be practical to just print up the mount alone and fit an injection moulded weapon to the printed mount?  The additional benefit of using less resin and saving resources along with money being the other factors. 

[ChalkLine]

It's a lot shorter when viewed in TinkerCAD, MeshLab really distorts things at the edges of the screen.

I still can't pick that mount, I wonder if it's actually for a 20mm. I might drop a KPV-T onto it and see how a 14.5mm looks

[ChalkLine]

I've chopped the M2 off, I'm almost certain this should have a 20mm+ on it. I have a free 35mm bushmaster that's nice but I think the mount is too lightweight for that monster. I think I'll see if the KPV fits on it but the .stl I have of that I bought and can't share

[ChalkLine]

A question for those knowledgeable:

Is it possible to use the 'hollow' function and have it save? I've tried to hollow a few vehicle bodies and they just won't save. I can see the hollow in Chitubox but after saving and exporting it's not there later. Either it's not saving as hollow or programs are 'repairing' the object as I import them.

[Frank3k]

Chitubox only hollows the object before it generates the sliced files - it won't modify the original STLs. The sliced file isn't editable, since it's basically just a stack of images.

I would do one of these if I needed a hollow body:

- Just hollow it in Chitubox and print.

- Make a box in a CAD program that is roughly the shape of the body, but smaller so there's a 2-3mm wall thickness.

- If the CAD program supports it, I add and offset the inside faces of the body meshes, creating the equivalent of a wall.

[ChalkLine]

Thanks, that clears it up. Although why 3D Builder is being recalcitrant only the silicone gods know and they dost wax wrathful.

I often just make a duplicate of the object, sheer all the surface detail off and shrink it by 2mm while holding the spatial relations then use the smaller duplicate as a hollow box. This particular turret has two large cupolas and I tried to leave the cupolas in the hollow box meaning they shifted into the centre of the turret space. Just writing this tells me they should be separate hollow boxes.

[ChalkLine]

So, trying a KPV 14.5mm HMG on the soft mount.
I bought a nice KPV MTPU naval mount and lifted the weapon off it, dropping it onto the soft mount. Of course there's no way to know if it'll look realistic enough until I print it. I think a metal gun-shield will be needed and some sights.

[Frank3k]

I wouldn't bother hollowing out something as small as a 1/35 MG; chances are that resin will get sucked in (or stay inside) after cleaning and curing. Something like a 1/35 vehicle body should be hollow, just to save on resin and weight. If it's one piece with no large openings, make sure there's a drainage hole somewhere. After washing and curing, use a UV LED to cure the inside of the model. Uncured resin can soak up water (especially the water washable ones) and eventually split a model open.

[ChalkLine]

I wouldn't bother hollowing out something as small as a 1/35 MG; chances are that resin will get sucked in (or stay inside) after cleaning and curing. Something like a 1/35 vehicle body should be hollow, just to save on resin and weight. If it's one piece with no large openings, make sure there's a drainage hole somewhere. After washing and curing, use a UV LED to cure the inside of the model. Uncured resin can soak up water (especially the water washable ones) and eventually split a model open.

This is what I was hollowing, I rebuilt the cupolas after 'cutting' the hatches off and 'drilled' holes into them but it's otherwise solid. I thought it might be nice to have it hollow but I'm reminded of the good advice that most of the details won't be visible even with the hatches open. I still might have the interiors of the periscopes, they're easy to do but the brow rests have got me stumped. I think I'll have to get serious and start doing tutorials on Blender as I've sort of reached the limit of TinkerCAD