Author Topic: SLB Heavy Industries - M2 medium tank - Done !! (Read 14596 times)

Steve Blazo · « **on:** November 25, 2019, 11:54:11 PM »

SLB Heavy Industries - M2 medium tank
Started this weekend

Old Wombat · « **Reply #1 on:** November 26, 2019, 09:07:22 AM »

Hooray! Another SLB Heavy Industries construct on its way! Woo-hoo!

Buzzbomb · « **Reply #2 on:** November 26, 2019, 11:31:44 AM »

Ohh.. I know where the kit parts come from.
That is always a great game with master scratch builds such as this is bound to be

tankmodeler · « **Reply #3 on:** November 27, 2019, 03:53:14 AM »

Watch the orientation of those gas caps and the shape of the plate they sit on, they don't match the drawings you have there. There probably also would not be the bullet splash strip near the caps, either.

I built this exact scratchbuild as a pattern for Commander's Series Models back in the early 90s.

You're starting better than I did as I used the Tamiya M3 Lee hull to start from and it's too wide. I had to fudge a bunch of angles to get it to work out. Also watch out for the fact that the tracks and road wheels on the M2 were narrower than those on the M3/M4 families. Mind, there's bugger all you can do about that without a huge amount of work. I said sod it and used Sherman track and updated the Lee suspension units.

Paul

ChernayaAkula · « **Reply #4 on:** November 27, 2019, 10:39:24 AM »

Quite impressive so far!

apophenia · « **Reply #5 on:** November 27, 2019, 11:17:46 AM »

Cool! Is SLB-HIs M2 medium tank going to be entered into the U.S. Enters WWII Early (1940) GB?

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #6 on:** November 27, 2019, 08:49:12 PM »

Quote from: tankmodeler on November 27, 2019, 03:53:14 AM

Watch the orientation of those gas caps and the shape of the plate they sit on, they don't match the drawings you have there. There probably also would not be the bullet splash strip near the caps, either.

I built this exact scratchbuild as a pattern for Commander's Series Models back in the early 90s.

You're starting better than I did as I used the Tamiya M3 Lee hull to start from and it's too wide. I had to fudge a bunch of angles to get it to work out. Also watch out for the fact that the tracks and road wheels on the M2 were narrower than those on the M3/M4 families. Mind, there's bugger all you can do about that without a huge amount of work. I said sod it and used Sherman track and updated the Lee suspension units.

Paul

Thanks for the advice Paul

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #7 on:** November 27, 2019, 08:50:12 PM »

Quote from: apophenia on November 27, 2019, 11:17:46 AM

Cool! Is SLB-HIs M2 medium tank going to be entered into the U.S. Enters WWII Early (1940) GB?

That is the plan, if I can get it done in time.

kim margosein · « **Reply #8 on:** November 30, 2019, 10:40:57 AM »

Would the Stuart track and road wheels be accurate?

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #9 on:** December 02, 2019, 09:16:08 PM »

Quote from: kim margosein on November 30, 2019, 10:40:57 AM

Would the Stuart track and road wheels be accurate?

I think they will be close enough, only other option I have is scratch building them. Not a task I want to try.

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #10 on:** December 02, 2019, 09:17:12 PM »

Update –

tankmodeler · « **Reply #11 on:** December 02, 2019, 11:54:19 PM »

Quote from: Steve Blazo on December 02, 2019, 09:16:08 PM

Quote from: kim margosein on November 30, 2019, 10:40:57 AM
Would the Stuart track and road wheels be accurate?

I think they will be close enough, only other option I have is scratch building them. Not a task I want to try.

Stuart track and road wheels will be far too narrow for an M2. Noting that the M2 had narrower tracks than the M3/M4, they were only an inch or so narrower and looked almost identical, it's far closer to use a set of Sherman T41 track for and M2 than using Stuart T16 track. The Stuart road wheels look quite different than the M2 wheels which are very close in everything but width to the Sherman standard wheels.

I'd suggest using a set of Takom or Miniart M3 Lee suspension bogies, wheels and tracks. The bogie trucks will still need a little modification to add fine details like the gussets and reinforcing ribs, but they are 95% of the way there out of the box. Plus, you get all the suspension units you need in one kit instead of needing two kits to get the right number of wheels and still need Lee bogie trucks as the Stuart units are totally wrong for an M2.

Paul

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #12 on:** December 03, 2019, 02:01:56 AM »

Quote from: tankmodeler on December 02, 2019, 11:54:19 PM

Quote from: Steve Blazo on December 02, 2019, 09:16:08 PM
Quote from: kim margosein on November 30, 2019, 10:40:57 AM
Would the Stuart track and road wheels be accurate?

I think they will be close enough, only other option I have is scratch building them. Not a task I want to try.
Stuart track and road wheels will be far too narrow for an M2. Noting that the M2 had narrower tracks than the M3/M4, they were only an inch or so narrower and looked almost identical, it's far closer to use a set of Sherman T41 track for and M2 than using Stuart T16 track. The Stuart road wheels look quite different than the M2 wheels which are very close in everything but width to the Sherman standard wheels.

I'd suggest using a set of Takom or Miniart M3 Lee suspension bogies, wheels and tracks. The bogie trucks will still need a little modification to add fine details like the gussets and reinforcing ribs, but they are 95% of the way there out of the box. Plus, you get all the suspension units you need in one kit instead of needing two kits to get the right number of wheels and still need Lee bogie trucks as the Stuart units are totally wrong for an M2.

Paul

Thanks Paul, after looking closer I have ordered an M3 for running gear. Thanks again for the advice and info.

tankmodeler · « **Reply #13 on:** December 04, 2019, 12:21:53 AM »

Quote from: Steve Blazo on December 03, 2019, 02:01:56 AM

Thanks Paul, after looking closer I have ordered an M3 for running gear. Thanks again for the advice and info.

BTW, please don't take my comments as criticism. If you want to build your model a certain way, I'm not trying to tell you what to do (even though it certainly may read like it

)

I'm a bit of a rivet counter and strive for accuracy in my models, even WHIFs. I have scratch built a lot of armour over the years so I'm just trying to offer advice on making it more accurate. If that conflicts with your vision, budget or fun level, please don't hesitate to tell me to shut up. I promise I won't take offence.

If you want more advise or references, though, I have a lot of both.

Paul

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #14 on:** December 04, 2019, 01:48:20 AM »

Quote from: tankmodeler on December 04, 2019, 12:21:53 AM

Quote from: Steve Blazo on December 03, 2019, 02:01:56 AM
Thanks Paul, after looking closer I have ordered an M3 for running gear. Thanks again for the advice and info.
BTW, please don't take my comments as criticism. If you want to build your model a certain way, I'm not trying to tell you what to do (even though it certainly may read like it )

I'm a bit of a rivet counter and strive for accuracy in my models, even WHIFs. I have scratch built a lot of armour over the years so I'm just trying to offer advice on making it more accurate. If that conflicts with your vision, budget or fun level, please don't hesitate to tell me to shut up. I promise I won't take offence.

If you want more advise or references, though, I have a lot of both.

Paul

No problem, I did not take it wrong at all. Any help I can get, I will take. You are right about the running gear, I just had not looked at it that close. That's the great thing about posting here, other eyes to help see what you missed. All comments make me a better modeler. Please keep watching the build and please offer advice.
Steve

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #15 on:** December 12, 2019, 09:03:42 PM »

Update 2

After some good advice from Tankmodeler, I found a cheap M3 kit at a local hobby store. It has much more accurate running gear.

Brian da Basher · « **Reply #16 on:** December 13, 2019, 04:56:13 AM »

That's coming along well and I especially like the grill work in the back.

Brian da Basher

Buzzbomb · « **Reply #17 on:** December 13, 2019, 05:32:49 AM »

Very, very neat build

finsrin · « **Reply #18 on:** December 13, 2019, 05:40:50 AM »

Quote from: buzzbomb on December 13, 2019, 05:32:49 AM

Very, very neat build

Ditto on that for sure.

Old Wombat · « **Reply #19 on:** December 13, 2019, 10:31:43 AM »

Nice work!

tankmodeler · « **Reply #20 on:** December 14, 2019, 01:12:37 AM »

Quote from: Steve Blazo on December 12, 2019, 09:03:42 PM

After some good advice from Tankmodeler, I found a cheap M3 kit at a local hobby store. It has much more accurate running gear.

HOWEVER, please don't use the track or road wheels. The road wheels have 6 spokes instead of the correct 5 and the track has the end connectors in the middle of the pads instead of joining two pads together. Dip into the spares box for proper spoked early Lee/Sherman road wheels for this.

The rear idler mounts are complete rubbish as well and the kit doesn't have the proper "pepperpot" exhausts or rear engine plate of the M2.

If (and only if) you are up to spending a bit more, I would suggest either buying the Academy M3 Lee or the new Takom or Minicraft early Lees. The Academy kit is pretty reasonably priced now that the much better Takom and Minicraft kits are available and has better detailed bogies, good idler mounts, the proper spoked wheels and quite reasonable track. The other two kits are much better again, but are much more expensive if all you're doing is using the running gear.

Minicraft also has a new kit of the earlt R-975 with the pepperpot exhausts as a separate kit that you could use down in the hull (as it's a clear view down into the engine bay in these tanks).

The 37mm M5 gun and mount are going to need to be scratchbuilt, but you may be able to get Commanders Series models to sell you just those parts as they have an M2A4 Light Tank kit and I think that's the only other kit and vehicle that has that gun mount.

I'm sure that more unsolicited advice was just what you were looking for at this point, right?

Paul

Paul

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #21 on:** December 14, 2019, 02:30:06 AM »

Thanks Paul, keep the advice coming, it sure helps. Due to time constraints for the group build and semi-limited budget, the items I can not scratch build will have to be as close as I can find. Hopefully it will look the part for the group build and be good enough for a show.

Thanks again for all the advice and help.

Frank3k · « **Reply #22 on:** December 14, 2019, 04:23:53 AM »

I love scratchbuilt armor projects, especially of the 1920s-30s. This is looking good!

Claymore · « **Reply #23 on:** December 14, 2019, 04:43:39 AM »

Awesome work and great skills with the plastic card!

I have always fancied scratching a M2 or perhaps some AH alternative but never found the time.

Your model is first class and thanks for sharing the construction pics.

Gingie · « **Reply #24 on:** December 15, 2019, 04:02:33 AM »

Tidy build there Steve

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #25 on:** December 16, 2019, 09:09:34 PM »

Update 3

Its starting to look a lot like …. A tank !

finsrin · « **Reply #26 on:** December 16, 2019, 10:02:29 PM »

More impressive fabrication with each picture set.

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #27 on:** December 26, 2019, 09:04:40 PM »

Update 4

Details and details

GTX_Admin · « **Reply #28 on:** December 27, 2019, 03:02:42 AM »

Looking good.

The Big Gimper · « **Reply #29 on:** December 27, 2019, 08:16:21 AM »

Excellent attention to detail Steve.

apophenia · « **Reply #30 on:** December 27, 2019, 08:20:18 AM »

Looking great!

Buzzbomb · « **Reply #31 on:** January 04, 2020, 05:49:40 PM »

Very, very tidy

finsrin · « **Reply #32 on:** January 04, 2020, 08:22:51 PM »

Such a combo of kit, scratch, and quality.

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #33 on:** January 28, 2020, 09:14:41 PM »

Update 5
Thank you all for the good words.
In the last 3 photos the treads are loose, still need to find a way to remove one link and fasten them together.

Old Wombat · « **Reply #34 on:** January 28, 2020, 10:44:55 PM »

Coming along brilliantly, Steve!

tankmodeler · « **Reply #35 on:** January 29, 2020, 03:06:49 AM »

Quote from: Steve Blazo on January 28, 2020, 09:14:41 PM

In the last 3 photos the treads are loose, still need to find a way to remove one link and fasten them together.

Unfortunately there's no easy way to shorten those tracks. The brute force way I've seen done is to take out the link, drill a few small holes through the two track pads on each side of the new join and literally sew them together with black thread. You'll be able to see it if you look, but, if the join is under a road wheel, it will be mostly hidden.

The alternative is to buy one of the available aftermarked T41 track sets and then assemble them leaving out a link or two to get the right length. This will provide a much better looking track (the end connectors will be properly located, i.e. joining each two pads and not in the middle of each pad as they are on youur old Tamiya kit) but the cost will be about 15-25 bucks depending on which maker's tracks you get. Panda makes great tracks and are the least hassle to assemble and install. Bronco and others make somewhat nicer track that depicts the way the tracks work a little more accurately at the cost of being a lot more involved to assemble.

Fruil makes individual link metal tracks that would try the patience of Job to assemble and still leave you with far too great a track sag to be accurate for American "live" track, so avoid these.

Paul

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #36 on:** January 29, 2020, 04:26:32 AM »

Thanks Paul, good advice. I looked for T41 indy-links. The only ones I could find were the Miniart, not to bad a price, would for sure look better the the rubber band tracks. Tedious to put together, but again, not to bad. Will have to think about them for sure.

Frank3k · « **Reply #37 on:** January 29, 2020, 04:58:58 AM »

This is looking good! I love seeing the naked styrene in scratchbuilds.

Brian da Basher · « **Reply #38 on:** January 29, 2020, 05:03:37 AM »

That gun looks every bit the business, Steve!

Brian da Basher

Camthalion · « **Reply #39 on:** January 29, 2020, 06:06:09 AM »

looking good

finsrin · « **Reply #40 on:** January 30, 2020, 03:57:35 AM »

At this point passes as real kit of real tank. Commendable scratch building. Can see doing duty alongside M3 Lee.

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #41 on:** January 30, 2020, 05:31:06 AM »

Quote from: tankmodeler on January 29, 2020, 03:06:49 AM

Quote from: Steve Blazo on January 28, 2020, 09:14:41 PM
In the last 3 photos the treads are loose, still need to find a way to remove one link and fasten them together.
Unfortunately there's no easy way to shorten those tracks. The brute force way I've seen done is to take out the link, drill a few small holes through the two track pads on each side of the new join and literally sew them together with black thread. You'll be able to see it if you look, but, if the join is under a road wheel, it will be mostly hidden.

The alternative is to buy one of the available aftermarked T41 track sets and then assemble them leaving out a link or two to get the right length. This will provide a much better looking track (the end connectors will be properly located, i.e. joining each two pads and not in the middle of each pad as they are on youur old Tamiya kit) but the cost will be about 15-25 bucks depending on which maker's tracks you get. Panda makes great tracks and are the least hassle to assemble and install. Bronco and others make somewhat nicer track that depicts the way the tracks work a little more accurately at the cost of being a lot more involved to assemble.

Fruil makes individual link metal tracks that would try the patience of Job to assemble and still leave you with far too great a track sag to be accurate for American "live" track, so avoid these.

Paul

I found and ordered a set of the Miniart ind-link tracks. I will probley be done with the model before they get to me. They will for sure look better tho.

Dr. YoKai · « **Reply #42 on:** January 30, 2020, 08:06:20 AM »

Inspiring! It is good to see the in progress shots.

apophenia · « **Reply #43 on:** January 31, 2020, 05:48:53 AM »

Quote from: Dr. YoKai on January 30, 2020, 08:06:20 AM

Inspiring! It is good to see the in progress shots.

It is indeed. Interested to see how the individual track links match up

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #44 on:** March 06, 2020, 09:09:27 PM »

Update 6
After a week with Type A Influenza, a little progress. I have received the ind-link tracks by Miniart, they sure do look better than the rubber band tracks, have not had a chance to play with them yet.

Old Wombat · « **Reply #45 on:** March 07, 2020, 12:13:06 AM »

Really coming along nicely, Steve! Really am impressed by this build.

Quote from: Steve Blazo on March 06, 2020, 09:09:27 PM

After a week with Type A Influenza.

Hope it wasn't too bad!

Quote from: Steve Blazo on March 06, 2020, 09:09:27 PM

I have received the ind-link tracks by Miniart, they sure do look better than the rubber band tracks, have not had a chance to play with them yet.

Be prepared to go slightly crazy(er) putting them together. $:-\$

GTX_Admin · « **Reply #46 on:** April 20, 2020, 03:57:49 AM »

Some inspiration to get you to the finish line:

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #47 on:** April 20, 2020, 07:17:04 PM »

Thanks needing that !! The ind-link tracks have dampened the effort. Very cool picture, the only one I have seen in color. This will help with the paint and weathering.

Story · « **Reply #48 on:** April 20, 2020, 10:29:40 PM »

Have some more inspiration.

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #49 on:** June 18, 2020, 08:07:21 PM »

Update – Tracks done
After making a jig the correct size, the first one was to narrow, the tracks went together much easier. Still a pain in the a$$, but they look so much better. They will get a tad tighter when the last end connectors are added.

Buzzbomb · « **Reply #50 on:** June 18, 2020, 08:35:35 PM »

Under paint, will look like a kit. Well done so far

Old Wombat · « **Reply #51 on:** June 18, 2020, 09:02:30 PM »

VICTORY!

Well done on the win with the tracks, Steve!

GTX_Admin · « **Reply #52 on:** June 19, 2020, 02:41:29 AM »

Looking good.

Frank3k · « **Reply #53 on:** June 19, 2020, 04:59:30 AM »

The tracks - and the rest of the tank - look great!

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #54 on:** June 22, 2020, 08:00:51 PM »

99% Done with the build, just need the machine guns in the front glacis plate. Need to do a little clean up and then the next photos will be with paint.

arkon · « **Reply #55 on:** June 23, 2020, 05:40:51 AM »

Almost a shame to cover all that beautiful work with paint😊

Volkodav · « **Reply #56 on:** June 23, 2020, 07:29:15 AM »

Old Wombat · « **Reply #57 on:** June 23, 2020, 04:08:17 PM »

Very impressed with this build!

Buzzbomb · « **Reply #58 on:** June 23, 2020, 06:39:05 PM »

Most Excellent

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #59 on:** June 25, 2020, 07:22:28 PM »

Pre-shading and highlights

First coat and a little base coat with white to fade

Old Wombat · « **Reply #60 on:** June 25, 2020, 08:23:21 PM »

Dr. YoKai · « **Reply #61 on:** June 25, 2020, 09:24:58 PM »

Double-plus

!

Steve Blazo · « **Reply #62 on:** June 30, 2020, 04:39:26 AM »

Decals added, details and tracks painted and on.

Wash done, all that needs to be done is the flat coat. Could not do it this weekend Because the humidity was over 70%, Tamiya flat coat frosts on high humidity days. Add headlights and its done.