3D Printers

[Frank3k]

Ok I don't think this is it as it wasn't present when I received the items and only appeared about a month later, almost like a white mould or similar.

The natural color of the material can be white, in part due to the printing process (it will have a yellowish tint if you polish a part until it's transparent) The white sections are probably areas where the oil has been completely removed or evaporated. Don't worry about it. If the surface doesn't feel oily after cleaning, it's good to go. I always prime the material (Mr. Surfacer works great) and never had an issue.

[Volkodav]

What I am referring to is a thick as in a couple of millimetres thick waxy feeling powdery build up over the parts, like an oxide coating, or like I said earlier a mould, i.e. the furry white mould that grows on food.  Smaller parts are virtually unrecognisable under this coating.

[Frank3k]

What I am referring to is a thick as in a couple of millimetres thick waxy feeling powdery build up over the parts, like an oxide coating, or like I said earlier a mould, i.e. the furry white mould that grows on food.  Smaller parts are virtually unrecognisable under this coating.

It may be residue support wax mixed with oil. It should go away after cleaning. There's nothing to leech out of the material, since it isn't a two part resin so residue is either wax, oil or a combination of the two.

If the part doesn't have delicate structures, you can try an old toothbrush to remove the excess, either in lukewarm water with a little soap or with a few drops of IPA.

[LemonJello]

We (my workplace) recently took delivery of a MakerBot Z18 and it's associated Digitizer...guess who's got the manuals in his office right now?  This coming week I plan to get it all set up and calibrated, then run a couple of "test" prints, all in the name of science, of course.

[Volkodav]

I had a 3D printer in my place of work for rapid prototyping back in 2003, manager was a tool though so none of us got to do any foreignies on it.  At least I had my own work shop purely for fabricating test jigs and widgets etc. 

[LemonJello]

I've been playing with our new MakerBot, trying out the different settings and seeing what can/can't be printed.  It's been a definite learning experience, and there's still a lot more to learn before I'd classify myself as more than a novice with this.

Here she is:


Here's what I've printed (other than some of the pre-loaded test files):


The near left is approx 1/48 scale, but the file had some errors so it didn't turn out quite right, the big one in back is approx 1/35 scale and something of an accident.  I had corrected the original file and must have scaled up from my desired 1/48 measurements.  Took about 9 hours to print.  The near right is the last one printed, back at 1/48 scale and there are still some areas that didn't come out right, I think a little putty, paint and sanding will give me a usable zodiac rubber boat.

I've downloaded a bunch of files from SketchUp, converted them to .stl format, then corrected for any issues before loading into the Makerbot software.  We'll see how they turn out. 

[Jeffry Fontaine]

Well you have to start somewhere.  At least you did not have to purchase the thing

Once you get some more experience with this I am confident you will be pumping (printing) out some really nice models. 

[LemonJello]

I figured the zodiac was a good "cover" project since our Maritime Archeologist is going to be one of the main users of the printer. 

[LemonJello]

OK, a few more test files run and here are the results:



These are 1/35 off road tires/wheels (I slightly scaled down HUMVEE tires to better fit on an M151 Jeep project I have in mind - the tread detail is ok, but the hub detail is non-existent.  I tried to go with Higher resolution settings, but the printer didn't like the file on those settings and aborted - so I went standard and got these - they're probably usable with some work.  Above the tires are Javelin (FGM-148) launchers - again I think they can be used, but the fine details on the controllers will need to be added as the standard settings just couldn't pull it off.  Alternatively, I can separate the tubes and use them as reloads in the back of a vehicle. 



Here we have a pair of AGM-129 Advanced Cruise Missiles - the tail fins and engine intakes have some errors, but they can be fixed and I'll be giving them a reprint in the near future.  Again, standard  settings on the printer, but I may give them a try on high and see what turns up.  If it turns out better - well then I have a master to try and cast a B-1's load in resin.

[Jeffry Fontaine]

The AGM-129 looks promising as do the Javelin missiles.  Looking forward to seeing these items getting fine-tuned. 

[GTX_Admin]

Very interested in acquiring some 1/48 AGM-129s if you are interested in selling them.

[Weaver]

Just got an e-mail from Staples (UK stationery supplier): they're selling plug'n'play 3D printers in their high street shops now. £1500 for the base model, £2000 for the better one. No idea how the specs compare to other printers. This is the product page:

http://www.staples.co.uk/lists/nonbrowseskusset?SkusetId=19591&cm_mmc=150715_COR_PRO_UK3_3_E15_07_015_09UK&RegID=-100000&RegID1=-100000&RegID2=0

[jcf]

Staples (actually a US based company BTW) is also selling 3D printers through their US stores:
http://www.staples.com/3D-Printers/cat_CL211598

[Weaver]

Staples (actually a US based company BTW) is also selling 3D printers through their US stores:
http://www.staples.com/3D-Printers/cat_CL211598

Didn't know they were a US company: cheers.

[LemonJello]

Very interested in acquiring some 1/48 AGM-129s if you are interested in selling them.

When I get the file refined, I'd be happy to send you a couple.

Here's my latest production:


I've been playing with this as a possible V-44/QTR nacelle.  I think I may have gone a little too big with this, though. 

[GTX_Admin]

Can anyone say "V-22 engine upgrade!"?

[LemonJello]

Another start to the work week, another couple 3D printing projects:

Pelican cases:


Barrels, pallets and stokes litters:


Pallet close up:


Litter and barrels:


I have a SAR-type rescue basket file, but the printer doesn't like it right now.  Also working through a couple of inflatable life raft containers during my lunch.

[LemonJello]

Here's a couple of quick and dirty missile containers I whipped up.  I have intentions of using one of my Trumpeter LAV-25's to make an ADATS type vehicle.

[Volkodav]

Looking really good and making buying a printer more and more tempting.  The Dremel 3d printer will apparently be available in local hardware stores soon.

[3dtech]

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[Kerick]

It seems 3D printing is making quite a difference in our hobby today compared to even a few years ago. I was wondering if someone could explain what would be required today to design and print something respectable. The entries here are from a few years ago so I was hoping for an update for a guy that doesn’t know much about how to do this. I’ve worked with AutoCad years ago but it was 2D and not suitable for this tech. Cost for equipment and software could be a problem too. I’m hoping some folks here could help out with some up to date info. Thanks in advance.

[Frank3k]

Blender can be used to make 3D objects - including movies. It has a learning curve that has thankfully become less steep. There are plenty of tutorials online.
FreeCAD may be closer to AutoCAD.

Fusion360 has free versions, which may or may not be useful for model work.

There are expensive 3D modelers with 30 day trials. I've used Rhino3D for years and it's relatively easy to use.

However designing a 3D model is only a small part of the process. You also have to learn how to make the parts printable, which in part depends on the printer you'll be using. Then you have to lay out the part so that it prints correctly. For instancee, Filament (FDM) printers have different requirements than resin printers. These steps require yet more software, which luckily is free or inexpensive.

[Kerick]

Thanks! Good to hear some of this software is free!

[Frank3k]

FDM printers can be used for models and model parts - especially after fine tuning the printer parameters (that's another issue...) but resin printers will have a much higher resolution and produce better prints out of the box.

Resin printers require good ventilation (a grow tent with a vent to the outdoors is the best) and the resin is very messy. You'll also need to wash (with alcohol or water) and cure the prints which adds yet more material (paper towels, alcohol, curing/wash station) and you absolutely need PPE -  while the cured resin is inert, the liquid resin can be nasty. Extended contact without a mask or gloves (and goggles!) can lead to resin sensitivity.

FDM printers are "safer" but they can still generate micro particles and fumes, so venting them (or keeping them in an enclosure) is a good idea.

[Kerick]

Of course I could buddy up to a couple of guys in my club who are good at this…….